Distilled Spirits: Bouldering in Virgina

Lots going on...

2011-03-19T21:11:00.002-05:00

dS was given the opportunity (depends on your side of the coin) to share with the world... www.cruxn.com

Another short film from Moore's Wall featuring the following problems:
-Trail side problem
-Classic Pinch Problem
-The Messer
-Boone Problem

Untitled from adam walker on Vimeo.

With some beats by:
-Oh No / Girl Talk
-Embrace the Martian / Crookers ft Kid Cudi

-W

Super Tsunami

2011-03-07T11:52:00.000-05:00

Yes son, fucking yes...well done.

Andy Cutler on Super Tsunami V10 from Andy Cutler on Vimeo.

Area updates, videos, and more

2011-02-28T11:43:00.001-05:00

Just a few quick updates of the goings on in SWVA:

Big fire out in Rockingham county...virtually shut out 2nd Mtn the other weekend. Apparently, it was impossible to boulder w/o a respirator.

Back in Giles, a far to common scenario in the South came to a conclusion. Mountain Lake, home to Dirty Dancing and a small collection of boulders has been under a temporary closure while access, liability, etc was evaluated by the land owners. Local climbers with the help and voice of the Mountain Lake Conservancy plead the case to the Board over the course of several months. Unfortunately, the board chose to make bouldering on the property an unsanctioned activity and now consider it prohibited.

To not end on a bummer...a few quick videos.

Freaks and Geeks from Donald Glover on Vimeo.

VIDEO PROFILE: BD athlete Fred Nicole bouldering in Switzerland from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Better Than Chocolate // Trailer from Haroun Souirji on Vimeo.

Another dS video to come next week! More Moore's...

VA Obscurities

2011-02-17T23:54:00.000-05:00

Lots going on to jibber about today...grab a beer and get ready:

Uno: Sale time...like woah, at Blue Ridge! Evolv Talons 2s, Gri Gri's, Boss Hog pads, select draws, 'biners, harnesses, and lots more are on sale, all weekend. All in addition to most of the winter clothing. It all hits 40% off on Sunday & Monday, but don't wait till then because you might miss out. Stop in for details or check it out online! How could it get better? Gri Gri 2, new Black Diamond draws, rope bags and more all just arrived!

nuff said...

climbing gear on sale! sneak peek!

Dos: Banff tickets are going WAY FAST. If you don't have one, you better act quick, or you might get left on the curb March 16th.

Tres: WFA course is going on Mountain Lake soon. March 26-27th to be exact. If you play in the woods like we do, then you owe it to your partners and family to know how to deal if shit hits the fan. Matt is one of the best, and this two day course is primo.

Quattro: Obscurities from crags around SWVA

SWVA Obscurities from adam walker on Vimeo.

Tomorrow night...

2011-02-16T22:28:00.001-05:00

A five pack of VA Obscurities.

till then the trailer...

VA Obscurities trailer from adam walker on Vimeo.

and a good friend's new instructional guidance for training:

W

Banff 2011 and more...

2011-02-13T20:21:00.001-05:00

A new variation went up at 2nd Mountain, as reported by Matt B. Start on WormWorld and link into the finishing moves on Jared. The problem was suggested to be in the V8 realm.

The seasonal closure for the Falcons has started for the North End at Moore's Wall...gonna have to wait awhile for Orange Crush. A long while...

bummer...

Banff is back in the 'burg March 16th 2011.

• Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour
We are excited to present the Annual BANFF MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL WORLD TOUR this year at the historic Lyric Theatre, in downtown Blacksburg, VA.

The 2011 edition of the film festival brings together a wide range of mountain escapades from all over the world. Come see how cinematographers push the limits to present films showcasing breath-taking locations, amazing cultures, and daring athletes. One showing only, so don't miss out!

Tickets are available for sale only at Blue Ridge Mountain Sports, located at the First and Main shopping plaza. The festival sold out in 2010, so act quickly!

Where: The Lyric Theatre
When March 16th, 7pm 2011
Cost: $13 in adavance / $15 day of show

Belated Photo Assualt

2011-02-04T09:22:00.003-05:00

After needing 30 days to find some reasonable fitness, things are starting to fall into place... A great break from the scene and training was good for the mind and soul...things have healed, and mind re-sharpened. While skipping the shallow waters & heading straight for the deep end; we've been trying to pick up where we left off...hoping to not drown along the way.

here is a photo-assualt. Loaded with some stuff from NC to SWVA

getting ready for the crimps

Andy VS Tsunami (low)

Damaged

Josh VS another unamed obscurity

W vs Project

Jenn VS Tiger Side

The Myth VS Krymptic

and a sweet video

More to come soon: Banff 2011, seasonal closures, FAs, and more.

W

A classic Piedmont obscurity

2011-01-25T18:35:00.000-05:00

Andy, Justin, and myself, set out in search of an obscure, yet classic, Piedmont problem. Crystal Buddha is hidden amongst the rhodos at Pilot Mountain State Park. While challenging to find, it is well worth the effort. After surmounting the low roof, we were rewarded with great pinching and spans up a prow.

A few pics:

Andy set up...

Andy getting his squeeze on...

Andy slapping up the prow

Justin escaping the roof

Justin starting up the prow

And a video from Nate Draughn of Crystal Buddha:

Crystal Buddha(V8) from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

-W

A Cold Winter's Day

2011-01-21T18:26:00.002-05:00

Finally sometime to get out...its been just over a month:

-days climbing in Dec: 3

-Days outside in Dec: 1

-Days in 2011 outside: 2.5

So with the holidays behinds us and a little more time on our hands, we've had a chance to get out, well, atleast a few times. Off to a good, albeit snowy start. First up in 2011, Titan's Traverse...a pumpy 30+ foot line of incut flakes. With a tricky opening section, the real crux is reaching the last section with warm enough fingers. Taking a hot minute to recall the beta and get used to the arctic conditions, the clash was over in just a few attempts.

Enjoy the pics...hopefully some more videos to come soon. It's a winter wonderland out there!

Headed in...

Not looking so great, but on we go...

walk in...

yup...

Crux hold on Titan Traverse

View driving home

....Soon....

2011-01-15T19:03:00.001-05:00

A new post is on the way...

Till then, here is sweet video of T-Rav pulling down a sweet line near Brevard, NC. Good work son.

Travis Gray climbs Crimps on Wall from Travis Gray on Vimeo.

Stay tuned...

W

almost the new year!

2010-12-27T09:33:00.001-05:00

Things have been quiet on the front...work and Christmas have been putting a damper on the blogging...hopefully more to come soon!

In the meantime, another from Bingo Bango:

Thanksgiving week post

2010-11-23T14:32:00.002-05:00

Temps have been a bit warm/wet in the 24060 the past few weeks considering the season, so the crew has made a few trips down to the classic Piedmont field, Moore's Wall. The giant north facing crag casts a shadow that's been keeping it crisp amongst the boulders. If you have never been, check out the awesome LT11 video below.

Having been a few years since we last visited, I wanted to check out a few new lines that have gone up ...
Vandalized (v6/7) - nice addition to an awesome block.
Rouge Wave (v8) - stellar!
Super Tsunami (v10) - awesome climbing...one to come back for
Pit Stain (v8ish) - also killer, a bit more "heady" than hard.
The Messer (v7) - cryptic...another one for the next trip
Blinded by the hype (v7/8) - was wet...

Hopefully, it will get cool in SWVA soon...lots to do, and never enough time.

Young Dave has returned to climbing after straining his hammy. After a brief stay in Banff to recover, word is he has headed back to the desert...

Enjoy 2 vids from Moore's Wall:

3 from Moore's Wall from adam walker on Vimeo.

Moore's Wall: A Few Piedmont Classics from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.

Have a great Thanksgiving, and keep an eye out for a post T-Day post...
-W-

2010-11-23T12:25:00.000-05:00

mid week quickie

2010-11-09T09:46:00.004-05:00

A mid week quickie...

Last post forgot to mention few new FA's, all at GHSP:
The Flying Spaghetti Monster ... v8/9
The Good Times Are Killing Me ... v6
Power of Jack ... v6
None are confirmed, and the race is on...

Also Ben D ticked the local classics Moneyshot (extended start, v7+) and Brooklyn Bridge (v8). Dave's Line (v8) next?

In the meantime, Andy C and Justin M, rep'd Radford @ the ABS comp @ Earthtreks (Timonium, MD). Andy and Justin took the 1/2 in Men's Advanced.

Till the next video from us, we you with 5 from others to get you psyched! Two words: Gill and Nicole.

Classic Nicole

Classic Nicole composure while demostrating power

Gill in his forties

Gill's take on the passion...

Last is the first repeat of Nicole's classic, Dreamtime, before it was chipped to death.

Dreamtime

-W

Running late as usual...

2010-11-04T08:44:00.003-05:00

It was delayed...but its finally here. Unfortunately the psyche it might build may have to last you till Spring, because LRT access is about to close till spring.

Whats a classic? I don't know after 15+ years of searching, suffering, sending, and failing. Trying to define it is a great challenge. You know it...but how to describe it, or distinguish it from the low balls, choss, and other lesser quality lines?

Why LRT out of all the areas at GHSP?
1) its a 5 minute walk with great scenery
2) largest quantity of problems
3) wide diversity of grades and styles.

What lines? Well some we had already shot, some we never had a great chance. They should all at least start at an obvious hold/feature, be striking, have a flat landing, and be friendly to climb on. Eliminants, bizarre starts, and poor hold/rock quality are definitely "no's"

Four got captured on video: Beast master, Escape from Alcatraz, The Hive, Nancy w/ an E. Not featured, but must do's if you are here: SLS, Kitten Mittens, Shanghi Knights. All of these are great lines, regardless of the grade...climb them. Enjoy them.

This is our first attempt. A classic to me may be your choss pile, but we are going to try to search out the lines that are the classics for their area in SWVA none the less. Stay tuned for more of the Classic series. Till then enjoy the ones we caught on video!

Classics: LRT @ GHSP from adam walker on Vimeo.

Coming next week...

2010-10-22T10:40:00.002-05:00

What makes a problem classic? position? holds? grade?

Some folks might use logical parameters or a bizarre form of math and online consensus to come up with an idea of what a 5 star classic is.

I don't pretend to know... some folks say I have strange sense of whats good or not.

We are gonna attempt to figure it out over the next few months while bouldering through SWVA, starting with the final GHSP session...

SWVA Classics: GHSP trailer from adam walker on Vimeo.

Until then....W

tantalizingly close

2010-10-13T19:28:00.002-05:00

Not a ton going on in the past week. The roller coaster of hot/less hot has been in full effect, and I think folks are about to be sick from the ride. The full season is just around the corner. Hopefully we have all paid our dues to crush in eminent future! So dig out the down, grab the chalk pot, and begin the count down to crush time.

Speaking of crush, young Dave has followed his compass West, yet again, in search of difficult pebbles. Last check had Dave headed for Joe's Valley in search of the RAD. Take a moment and check his blog.

As promised a new video...but not only one, but two! First is probably the final installment of the GHSP sessions. Its starting to get prime in other areas, and we have run the course through GHSP...not a lot left to do, but tons of projects else where for the season. Maybe a one more...

GHSP:3 from LRT from adam walker on Vimeo.

Second is from our lost compadre, Will of Bingo Bango Productions. We are psyched to have some new contribution to the digital carnival, and can't wait to see what else comes... without further delay....

Last, but not least, don't forget the photo contest from the previous post! Become famous for 15 minutes, and have your picture at that top of DS!

W

Photo-asault, contest, and more!

2010-10-09T19:02:00.001-05:00

Finally, the diblitating heat has broken here in SWVA! Just as I was about to give up all hope and resign myself to my newest hobby. Time to start sizing up the fall projects and do work! And if you are looking at GHSP, best get a move on as the access to the LRT boulders will close in the next few weeks till Spring. Go get it!

A few FAs have gone up in the past week or two with the improving conditions:

Wookin Pa Nub, V8/9 @ GHSP

Undercover Motherfucker (direct), V6 @ Sandstone Mtn (video to come)

Green Room (sit), V6 @ Sandstone Mtn

Tournament of Champions, V6 @ Nebo

We are gonna run a cool little photo contest for the next bit. See the title at the top...imagine your photo there for all to gaze upon. Start snapping pics and email them to DSbouldering@gmail.com . The contest will end Nov 10. Just about a month to get some killer shots and submitt them. The winner might even get a little something special...

Rules (there are always rules, but not many):

1) needs to be in SWVA (2 hr-ish circle around 24060)

2) needs to be somewhere that has open access...no stealth missions

3) submitted by Nov 10th

in the mean time, let part one of the Photo Assualt begin!!!

Josh and W VS Stigmata (v9/10)

Josh VS Stigmata (v9/10)

Cliff VS Smart Tom(v4)

Adam VS Kalashnikov (v6/7)

W VS Worm World (v9)

Jenn VS Sloppy Poppy (v4)

Truc and W sussing it out

Dave VS Flinger (v8)

There should be a new video up in a few days, but not to disappoint those looking for some sweet videos to keep the psyche up , I got to two to send your way. First up is a funny music video from Chris Webby. Check it...

Dos...an LT11 snowboarding video?!?!? Yeah, its killer.

Gnarcade from Mike Benson on Vimeo.

W out, or as Marco would say, offline.

Fall is on the Horizon

2010-09-22T15:26:00.002-05:00

Lots going on in SWVA...

New problem on Sandstone Mtn: The Green Room, v6. Start on the ledge under roof and follow rails out to arete and top out. Video to come soon.

Mtn Nebo had a project go down...more to come. Double-A-ron? I'm looking at you!

Coveted 2nd ascents at GHSP have occured over the past little bit. Down Tempo got a second, though it is not as difficult as originally described (v8). Climbing a sloper lip for a few moves before easing, Down Tempo clocks in closer to about v6. A third ascent might be needed to help this problem settle around the accurate grade. Video to come...

Sigourney Weaver was confirmed at v8+/9-. Climbing a line of crimps and relying on core tension, this line is fun despite being a lowball. The start hold crumbled a bit during the repeat process, but no change in difficulty.

Jenn has been reppin' it for the ladies. She has been putting together a nice list of FFA's from GHSP of late. A few highlights from the late summer season.
Reverie
Frisky Monkey
Casual Tees
Punticilo

and with Thews & Mothership nearly in the crosshairs...and hiking Mike Tyson's Face (5.12), it will be interesting to see what she can do with a bit better conditions.

While we were at AVP finishing Sigourney Weaver, we noticed some of the holds on Frontman were flexing quite a bit. We showed up this weekend to warm up, and the holds now moved nearly an inch! The Richmond crew decided to test the stability of the holds...

Untitled from adam walker on Vimeo.

Last week had 2 great film festivals going on, the Reel Rock Tour and the Radical Reel Tour. The later had some great videos. My personal favorite was the Paxti U. segment from Progression. Inspirational for trying HARD. A few pics from the Expo and festival are here.

The Reel Rock Tour was in its second edition at VT. The VT climbing club raised some money for both NRAC and the Access Fund. Blue Ridge Mtn Sports helped to pad the donation with a raffle of an Osprey Talon 22. Congrats to Sarah L on winning a sweet pack and giving a donation!

Last, but not least, the first round of the Triple Crown is quickly approaching. Hound Ears, which is open just once a year for this event, is first up. Registration is full, so if you have yet to sign up, then you are gonna miss a bad ass session. Luckily, the after party and gear raffle are open to all, and helps benefit climbing in the SE. If you have never been, then check out this video for a glimpse into the event and its history!

Triple Crown Bouldering Series 2010 from matt stark on Vimeo.

There you have it....lots to be psyched about as the cooler temps begin to trickle in. Stay tuned as some cool stuff is about to come down the pike!

2 great festivals next week!

2010-09-11T09:44:00.002-05:00

Looking for some fun times in the gymless 24060? Well, two film festivals are going on over the next few days! First up is the Reel Rock Tour, brought to Blacksburg by the Climbing Club at VT. Sure to be a great time for all of the climbers in the NRV! Stop by early, check out the Blue Ridge booth, and make sure to buy tickets for the gear raffel. Some great stuff to be raffeled off from BRMS, Chaco, Mountain Khaki, Mammut, and more! Best of all, proceeds are being donated to NRAC and the Access Fund!

Venue: Graduate Life Center at Virginia Tech Auditorium
Date: Tue 09/14
Show Time: 7:00 pm
Tickets: $6 at the door. Doors open at 6:30pm.

Back for a 2nd year, is RoanokeOutside.com presenting Radical Reels!

Faster, steeper, higher, deeper! The most outrageous mountain sport films from the 34th annual Banff Mountain Film Festival will thrill and inspire you with big-screen adventures when RADICAL REELS comes to Roanoke on September 15.

Bike tough trails, paddle wild waters, and ski steep slopes. The Radical Reels Tour runs every spring & winter and spans North America bringing a variety of mountain sport films to a wide range of viewers from hard-core outdoor adventurers to weekend warriors. Grab your tickets and hang on to your seats as we present the world’s best action films on skiing, boarding, climbing, biking, kayaking and more – all brought to life on the big screen. The tour makes only one stop in Virginia, and this is it!

GET OUTSIDE EXPO - From 5:00-6:30 local outfitters, stores, non-profits, and volunteer groups will have tables set up showcasing what it is they do. Come meet the people who keep our outdoors moving!

Time
5:00PM–6:30PM (Outdoor Expo–come whenever!)
6:45PM (Radical Reels showing–be on time)

Where
The Jefferson Center (downtown Roanoke).

Notes
Beer and wine available.

Cost
$13 (includes tax) - Last year's event sold out early - so get your tickets now.

Purchase Tickets Online (additional $2.50 fee)
Call (540.345.2550) or buy in person and there is no additional $2.50 fee
Students tickets are $7 (must purchase at Jefferson Center)

Facebook Users
Check out the Facebook Event Page to see who else is coming and invite your friends.

Check 'em out, as they both are great shows and not to be missed!

Like a broken record...

2010-09-08T07:48:00.001-05:00

...is how we have been climbing. Working the last kinks out of our summer projects at GHSP before the Fall climbing season rolls into the South. Not a bad thing, as there is plenty to keep up with.

Some notable new problems at GHSP

-Mouth of Wilson (stand)

-Mouth of Wilson (low)

-Frisky Monkey

-When Mommy Hit Daddy

-Allegiance to the Swag
- and many more...

Brushing the sloper on When Mommy Hit Daddy

Jenn almost flashing Thews

So we got a replacement Flip Mino, and guess what, that shit doesn't work. Moral: don't get a Flip Mino. Another short from GHSP, shot from the little Canon.

Jenn: Wing Man & Reverie

W: Tiger Side & When Mommy Hit Daddy

Wyatt: Tilt-a-Whirl

GHSP 4 from adam walker on Vimeo.

A few from the 24060 got out to the NRG to give a little love to the Junk Yard crag approach. The Jasons, Jenn, and Mike all got out there, shoveled gravel, laid ties, and helped create a much needed stair system to the crag. Well done !

top of the trail

Jason

Jenn and Mike shoveling some gravel

Lots of hard work...almost done!

-W

bC in the PNW

2010-08-25T00:00:00.001-05:00

PNW, check.

In one word: AWESOME.

Actually its not, its terrible, never go. Its crowded, slick, chossy, and all full of itself. ;)

We got the grand tour: Squamish & Leaventworth

Squamish is a granite paradise. All of the nice parts of a granite field like Yosemite, but without any of the detractions. Only issue...its 3000+ miles aways from the 24060.

Truc had a crack team assembled to crush us, and that they did. We ran from one end to another sampling all the classics: Worm World, Heart Break Hotel, Lounge Act, Easy Chair, Gibs Cave, Viper, and many more.

The Crew: Heidi, Brian, Haychoi, Eric, Truc

W vs Worm World

W vs a really heavy block

Eric vs Viper

Heidi vs Heart Break Hotel

Truc vs Sloper Rail

Jenn getting some ass

Truc vs Flake

Leavenworth :

one word: Bavarian.

Leiterhosen, brats, brots, keilbasa, and beer make this place sweet. Well that, and endless boulders. Really, really killer ones at that.

W vs Fridge Left

W and Truc sussing Hanta Man

W vs Bavarian Beer

Jenn vs Bavarians

Jenn vs Witch's Hat High Ball

As for video, we had some tech difficulties. We were dumfounded by the easiest VC on the planet. Later we found it wasn't us, and another is on the way...in HD. Till then, enjoy.

bC in the PNW from adam walker on Vimeo.

-W

West ward!

2010-08-13T17:43:00.002-05:00

Broce element of bC is chilling at the airport in Roanoke

so far:
1 55 min flight delayed
1 accidently deleted post
1 questioned piece of baggage
1 questioned piece of clothing
1 questioned computer
2nd flight delay, 10 min

and still haven't left Roanoke. So with some time to kill... a post with 2 quick notes:

1st:

Currently bouldering at Mtn Lake is still closed. Mountain Lake Conservancy
is re-evlauating what types of recreation they wish to allow on their land.
While local resources are working with MLC to guide this evalauation, it is
requested that the climbing community continue to abstain from bouldering at
Mtn Lake. In order to not only show support for the MLC's wishes, but also
the importance of the resource to the climbing community, a petition is circulating. Please take a moment to sign: They are available at the Climbing Club @ VT, W, Travis M, or Blue Ridge Mountain Sports. The petitions will be collected in the up coming weeks prior to a land management proposal meeting for the Mtn Lake area. Thank you for taking the time to do so as we try to show the community's concern for for our local resource.

2nd:
We climb at the NRG, we love it, and could stand to give a day of work back. So save the date, head out, and lend a hand. We are, will we see you there?

Facebook page

From NRAC:
<<<<<

Lend just an hour or two, a whole day or multiple days!

What: Junkyard Wall approach trail, risers and re-route
When: Tuesday, August 31 – Monday, September 6
Where: Junkyard Wall each day at 8:30 am
Bring: Closed-toed shoes, your own food, water, etc.

Junkyard Wall gets its name from the actual unofficial junkyard that once graced what is now the approach trail. The hill was, "once an overflowing mound of washing machines, Mason jars, old tires, and household refuse," writes Mike Williams in New River Gorge Rock Climbs (Wolverine Press). The NPS cleaned the largest of the trash out long ago, but the tinier detritus remains. That combined with the steep nature of the trail makes approaching Junkyard the most dangerous part of the day. Who knows how deep the trash runs?! Take a gander at the millions of glass shards lining the path and it's easy to see why some call it "Hepatitis Hill."

Well, not for much longer. Beginning Tuesday, August 31 and going on through Labor Day Weekend, NRAC and the NPS plan to attack the long-standing Junkyard Wall approach problem by re-routing parts of the trail and installing steps where needed. The major push will occur Saturday, September 4, but we'll gladly accept your help on any one of those days. If you can lend an entire day, that’s great, but we understand the lure of the cliff, too. If all you can give us is an hour or two, we’ll appreciate you just as much!

>>>>>

So there you have it: two great opportunities to spread some love to 2 of our unique resources. So gain some good karma, sign a petition, and help move some trash!

If you need to carpool, or have a question, post to comments

T minus 5 days...

2010-08-09T19:16:00.001-05:00

Folks are starting to come out of hibernation as the Fall season approaches. Jay and Josh hopped on the train to GHSP this past Sunday to test the waters. Good to see folks checking out the best summer climbing in VA, and getting psyched to rip when the cool Autumn weather returns. While checking out some classic hard lines and a few projects, a few FAs were squeezed in: S.W.S. (v6ish), Kitten Mittens (v3), six50 (v3), Stumble (v0). Lots of great lines to chose from for a late summer project...where to begin?

A quick & dirty vid to keep you psyched...Three from GHSP
1) Jenn cruising up Front Man @ AVP
2) Josh reaching through Paladin on his 2nd or 3rd try...bagging the 3rd(?) ascent of Paladin @ LRT...pretty good for not climbing in 8 weeks. He also snatched up the first repeat of the odd ball line, Sofa King
3) W on the short crimp problem, Athena @ Olympus

GHSP 3 from adam walker on Vimeo.

Speaking of goodness, the Broce element of BC is getting ready to depart for Seattle and Canada for a week, eh? Friends, seafood & beers, and a few boulders... Psyched to see what the NW has to offer!

much to come...back in a bit

GHSP...again

2010-07-29T22:40:00.000-05:00

The 300 Broce elements of bEAST coast have a one track mind it seems, and the track leads right to Grayson Highland State Park at the moment. A beautiful 75 degree day welcomed us and Mike as we rolled into AVP, where met our friend Philip.

The day at AVP unfolded for each of us:

Mike:, Frontman, stand(v4); Volatile(v3)

Philip: Frontman, sds(v5); Distance Dyno (v4); Volatile(v3); FA of Stilletto

Jenn: Casual Tees (v6); Frontman, sds(v5); Volatile(v3, FLASH!)

W: Finger Confusion (v7); Casual Tees (v6, flashed); Frontman, sds(v5, flashed); Volatile(v3, flashed)

After a good bit of time at AVP, we re-grouped and headed to the LTR sector. The "Man-child" area was the our focus, as Mike and Philip were itching to try the two tiger problems, Bengal and Tiger Side. Phil made progress on Tiger Side, while Mike stayed determined and sent Bengal!

Seattle is coming up quick. We have been looking to get fit. A long ways to go, but its a long ways to travel to suck. Get ready Seattle bEAST COASTERS, the 300 Broce contingent is revving the engine!

Check the media:

Mike on Volatile

W capturing some crappy video

GHSP: AVP & LRT from adam walker on Vimeo.

2010-07-24T08:58:00.003-05:00

The computer is back with a new hard drive! Now back to regular posts?!?!

A few of the bEAST Coasters have been hitting Grayson Highland State Park up over the past few weeks. In a nut shell, GHSP is pretty sweet and wide open for FAs...get it on. The team has been grabbing repeats while working in a few FAs along the way.

FA's- Man-Child, Beast Maker, Heavy Footed Swagger, 1Up, Sofa King, Tumble, Of Gum Drops and Sugar Plums, Sugar High, Smurf Turf. And a load of repeats in the moderate v5-v7 range...time to work some of the harder lines! Lots to be done... Can't wait for cooler temps!

Also of note, bEASTcoast is making its way to Seattle to bring some ruckus to former bEAST coasters. Time to train like Rocky, get some new kicks, and maybe climb more than 2x a week. Might even go run once or twice.

And now for multi media action!

Mike and the mini ponies

W on Fulgora

Jenn on Athos

Wyatt

W on S.LS.

Scott on Tiger Side

Video from Brad Caldwell

video from Matt Bielejeski

Nexus from adam walker on Vimeo.

A quick an dirty of the 2nd ascent

Out -W

Mtn Lake Access

2010-07-19T17:39:00.001-05:00

Access to climbing areas in the southeast is not a given; many areas face threatening access issues while others have already been closed. Unfortunately our local areas are no exception. As of the dated email below, the Mountain Lake Conservancy has asked that all climbing cease till further notice. Once the Mountain Lake Conservancy has come to a conclusion on what forms of recreation are allowed on the property, a notice will be sent out.

As we work towards gaining access to this local resource as a user group, following their request is of the utmost importance. As opportunities arise for a club or individual to help in the process, we will post it up ASAP. In the meantime, feel free to post questions in the "comments" and we'll get back to you quickly.

Thanks having patience as we try to regain access to a unique resource here in SWVa.

-----Original Message-----
From: Emily Woodall at Mountain Lake

Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2010 3:50 PM
Subject: To the Local Bouldering Community

Greetings from the Mountain Lake Conservancy. I wanted to give you a heads up regarding our land use policy for our 2,600 acres of private property. It is the Conservancy’s mission to further Mary Moody Northen’s desire to forge bonds between people and nature in Mountain Lake’s unique environment. We also have a commitment to provide accessibility to all. With that said, we want to make sure that our property is accessible to all community users. Recently we have run into some issues with liability and what sports/activities are allowed on Conservancy property and are working to clear this up.

Our current rules now allow trail users to access our trails year round by paying our $3.00 donation per vehicle. During the months that the hotel is open, you are welcome to park in the main hotel parking lot. We have also built a new trail parking lot located 1 mile past the hotel on the right that is open year round. You are not allowed to park near the Newport House or any other undesignated areas.

Because we are private property, we are not responsible for your well-being and users are at their own risk when recreating at Mountain Lake. This fall we are holding a meeting with the MLC Board to discuss our land use policies, liability, insurance etc. We want to clear up any gray areas so that all community users are clear on what activities are allowed on property. I will keep you updated through this process.

In the meantime, please limit your activities at Mountain Lake until we have a comprehensible policy in place that we can share with you. I will keep you updated with this progression.

Thanks and please email me if you have further questions.

Emily Woodall

Managing Director
Mountain Lake Conservancy

www.MtnLakeConservancy.org
540.626.7121 x444

2010-07-01T22:14:00.002-05:00

The past week or so has seen some great weather, especially down in the Grayson Highlands State Park...not perfect, but amazing for mid-summer in the south east! Spray and hopefully some video/pics to come soon..so find an umbrella.

GHSP is good shit, and the possibility of a trip looming on the horizon has got me thinking...might have to get in touch with these guys. That and maybe climb more than once/twice a week. Fall is coming...

Foals "Miami" from Team G on Vimeo.

Have a great 4th and enjoy the grilling festivities

W

sizzler

2010-06-21T13:35:00.000-05:00

Its hot, like really hot...hot enough I bought a new harness to go chuffing. Nothing like 90 degree heat while trying to swim up a cliff. I might drown...

Back when it was decent out, I checked out the little boulder crag in Bluefield. I was fortunate enough to climb this unique line:

Now its gone, along with the delapitated building to make way for "Progress". Still a bunch of cool moderates up there, but the most unique line there is gone.

Found this little gem "unposted"...

Title: Return of the Mexican

Quote from the fabled Mexican: I will crush your problem.

Result:

beware of Wynonna's bite

Only about 100ish days to Fall...hopefully I'll make it without suffering from heat stroke. And we are only on day 1 of Summer

W out

Been a while, no?

2010-05-20T17:38:00.003-05:00

Computer died.... No video from comp, at least for now.

More posts to come as I try to recover some footage/images from the past few months. In the meantime, two quick vids:

First, you may have seen this already, but in light of the gigantic oil rig disaster, its probably more relevant. A Patagonia commercial featuring Yvon C., whose company has its roots in doing the right thing while having fun. Makes you think twice about some things, like who makes your stuff, where it comes from, and the responsibilities those folks/companies/industries/ should shoulder. Not all do...

In its full glory here.

Secondly , a more light hearted short, of some short ones, from Will, Ben, Conor, and Matt...BingoBango Productions...

out-

Banff Mountain Film Festival and more!

2010-03-12T16:30:00.001-05:00

Mar 17, 2010
• Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour

We are excited to present the Annual BANFF MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL WORLD TOUR this year at the historic Lyric Theatre, in downtown Blacksburg, VA.
The 2010 edition of the film festival brings together a wide range of mountain escapades from all over the world. Come see how cinematographers push the limits to present films showcasing breath-taking locations, amazing cultures, and daring athletes. One showing only, so don't miss out!

Tickets are available for sale at Blue Ridge Mountain Sports, located at the First and Main shopping plaza. Tickets are moving fast, so get yours soon!

Where: The Lyric Theatre
When March 17th, 7pm
Cost: $10 Adults/ $8 Students with ID

follow the event on FaceBook

Check the trailer below...this thing is rad, so be there or be [ ]

Also climbing has just becoming doable again here in the NRV...shit has been snowed on, and then ice covered. As I write, now its raining...fuck. Tired of the sporadic good, or atleast dry, conditions locally, well here are some short clips from drier days.

great trailer from a movie that didn't happen:

McAfee Knob bouldering Trailer from Matthew Gant on Vimeo.

And two classic, local moderates:
FEA

http://vimeo.com/8618892 from Matthew Gant on Vimeo.

European Smoothness:

http://vimeo.com/8618689 from Matthew Gant on Vimeo.

Escape to Lunchbag

2010-03-02T16:20:00.002-05:00

How do you know you're a strong climber? You make a climbing video that has absolutely no climbing in it, whatsoever. If you've got the balls to pull that off and not fear being heckled by the literal and digital peanut galleries, then fear not young climber--you crush. If you can't perform such a fearless act, then get the fuck out our way. Luckily, Clif, Jay, and myself all have enormous balls . . .

Escape To Lunchbag from Joe Lambert on Vimeo.

2nd Annual BRMS/Rock Bouldering Comp Results

2010-03-01T23:08:00.000-05:00

2010 results:

Guys: Beginner
1) Aaron Ramsey (1685)
2) Kevin Kelly (1400)
3) James Lassiter (790)

Gals: Beginner
1) Jenny Wagner (430)

Guys: Intermediate
1) Mike Szwedo (2280)
2) Sam Froelich (1910)
3) Joe Gruss (1810)

Gals: Intermediate
1) Kelly N. (1365)

Guys: Advanced
1) Will Dorinsky (2935, tie breaker at 7th problem)
2) Aaron Parlier (2935, tie breaker at 7th problem)
3) Matt Londrey (2775)

Thanks to everyone who came out and pulled down! Special thanks to the The Rock @ the Dwelling Place for hosting the event & Blue Ridge Mountain Sports for sponsoring the comp! See you in 2011! Comp video to come soon...

2 annual BRMS/Rock Bouldering Comp

2010-02-17T16:34:00.000-05:00

'Twas the night before The Comp, when all through the gym
Not a knuckle dragger was stirring, not even a chuffer;

The holds were cleaned by the car wash with care

In hopes that comp day would soon be there;

The boulderers were nestled all snug in their beds

While visions of crushed problems danced in their heads

And Cliff on his ladder, and Josh with his wrench,

Had just settled down for a well deserved beer,

When out on the lawn there arose such a clatter,

We sprang from the gym to see what was the matter.

Away to the window we flew like a flash,

Tore open the shutters and threw up the sash.

The moon on the breast of the new-fallen snow

I knew in a moment it must be time.

And I laughed when I saw it, in spite of myself;

A twist of the hip, and a dyno to the hold,

Soon gave me to know I had nothing to dread;

All spoke not a word, but went straight to work,

And filled all the score cards; and cranked with a jerk,

And laying their chalk pots aside of the pads,

And giving a spot, up the problems they rose;

They sprang to the beats, and to his team he gave a shout,

But I heard him exclaim, through the chalk filled the night

Its Comp night!

Where the Fuck is that Map?!?

2010-02-17T13:33:00.003-05:00

So a good buddy 'o mine (Clif-tard) called me about a week ago and left me a voice message. In short, he said: "Hey Joe, I was wondering if it hurt, or if you broke any bones, when you fell off the map. Gimme a call." Well, Jay and I found the map yesterday and lived to tell about it. Basically, it's fucking cold as a nipple outside and no matter how much you work out, if you don't climb all the time, you suck at climbing. Weather this weekend looks pristine (sunny and mid 40's friday saturday and sunday (which is fucking heat-wave style temps compared to the last 45 days here in the suck-ass north of the south-east)). So get the fuck outside and away from the drudgery of watching Arrested Development re-runs and breathe some of that good old mountain oxygen. Don't forget the beer, though. This is bouldering.

Climbing Back onto the Map from Joe Lambert on Vimeo.

Top quality rock and bottom end weather

2010-01-23T18:56:00.003-05:00

I have seemed to get only the rainy days off anymore. So asides from catching up on life and chores, here is a post for those friends who have been out there dodging the droplets and getting it done.

Davey boy has been at it in Hueco, filling his 8A card up with impressive ticks. The Yankee is doing well in the wild west, so check out his blog and videos. Keep up the cruhing, and see you in the Spring!

Choir Boys from David Reis on Vimeo.

Purple Flowers from David Reis on Vimeo.

The young ones made a pretty sweet video. Check it out below.

Moore's Wall classics: V3P0, Lost Boys, Cuisan, Vandal, and Tsunami

Until the next time...

2010-01-06T17:43:00.002-05:00

ICE COLD WEATHER BLOWS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

a woody for you; a woody for me

2009-12-16T20:30:00.003-05:00

introducing the first annual bEAST coast, Got Wood Wednesday?

this week I shared my wood with...

--Josh Hepler, Didier Berthod and PBR, of course!

OLD fNUCK

2009-12-13T10:39:00.004-05:00

bOONE

2009-12-13T09:29:00.013-05:00

and the bEAT goes on!

Parking lot closed! No problem. Coming from the 'Burgs we would be confused if the approach were easy...luckily this is where the car was when we got back!

What a beautiful day! Boulders- open for business

it's ok Ben, Conner might be able to come next time;)

Will spotting the bro

Jen decides to skip the warm ups and go straight to V6. After a few attempts she decides to "FLASH" the V2 highball with the same start!!

lotsa spotters and everyone nervous, Jen is shuffling around in the leaves!

SHEW! Good work JEN!!

...ending the day, a few attempts at room with a view

thanks CURTIS!! (the man behind the camera)

pease!!

cliff

more goodness

2009-12-11T19:52:00.000-05:00

Oh so good...Joe we love you.

bEAST Coast finest 1: Jose from adam walker on Vimeo.

Mountain Madness

2009-12-04T10:28:00.001-05:00

Are your toes poking out the ends of you climbing shoes?

Your pad is now a gigantic napkin...good only for the peanut gallery to sit on?

or has your harnesses have become "bed room" use only, then this your chance!

Blue Ridge Mountain Sports at First and Main, Blacksburg, VA

Videology

2009-11-30T10:18:00.003-05:00

Finally! After many a day of frustration and anger at both my computer and apple software, I managed to figure out the simplicity of iMovie. Hurray for not being comp-savvy in the digital age. Eight-year-olds everywhere rejoice in their collective brilliance with all things transient. Enough bullshit. Here's that promised video. Enjoy. Laugh at/with. Mock. Whatever. Just spread the word.

DAB

2009-11-24T18:44:00.001-05:00

'nuf said. From the guys over at DABtronics.

weekend warriors return...bOZOO

2009-11-22T19:07:00.006-05:00

The weather this past weekend...

If you don't know how that sentence ends then you are a) under the weather b) suckered into the western "fools" gold c) lame couch 'tater 3) all the above

Lots of familiar 'burger faces joined the bEAST coast posse this past weekend to feel the sweet sandstone at the Zoo. Of course, a photographic picture blitz is in order...

Oh yes...this little jewel has invited many and only allowed a few to mount her. Typical first sighting brings comments like- the disrespecful "let's climb that slab real quick" or the sarcastic "is it only one move?"

Let the games begin...

Jay has returned to even the score from last weekend- I'm thinking we agreed the scoreboard is roughly-- Jay 0 Slab 30,000,000

...and a slap from Jim

...Conner gets a his share of slaps

...bEN slaps ---numerous times in one spot?

...JOE knows the way...but this is no easy lap

...Ali finds the bad sloper

...Jay finds the good spot---sloper scores again!

...Joe decides to send the easier slab and points at the "other" slab to kiss his rosey little ass!

Careful Joe!!!! the rock gods will punish you and perhaps hiss and bite you unexpectedly...

looks like a cool starting pocket...Joe chalks up
puts his hands on the rock, right hand in the
pocket, screams like a little school girl as he jumps off the rock. What's that, a bee or broken hold?

...Fnuck no, it's a damn hissing, fang threatening BAT!!!!

difficult to see here, but this was the best image gotten from at least a dozen---

consider this a public service reminder to get your rabies shot

...until next time- cliff

bEAST Coast Recon Trip: Bluefield Boulders

2009-11-19T17:44:00.006-05:00

Feeling under the weather and not up to going 110% on a project, I decided a recon trip to a new area was a bit more my pace. After getting tipped off as to some bouldering near the VA/WV line in Bluefield, I seeked confirmation from the crew's Bluefield information resource: Cliff

Cliff confirmed that there were boulders, and that he spent some time drinking there back in the day, prior to forming his bouldering habit. Good enough for me...at least they are quality enough to inspire some beer drinking if they proved dumpy, chossy, or worse. Off on 46oW I went.

After a touch over an hour's drive, I arrived at the VA/WV border. The boulders were clustered above a small seasonal rest area/park on top of East River mtn. Psyched to get out of the car, I grabbed my coffee and did a quick walk through of the field. Its not huge (it can be walked through in just about 10minutes), but there is quite a bit of rock with no approach to speak of. So far, so good.

The first boulder I came across was the Sandy boulder. It was home to some nice sneaker problems that were great to warm up on. After getting used to being out of the car, I gave the boulder's name sake problem, Sandy's Slap, a quick flash. A great warm up problem with no tweaky holds.

Aaron on Sandy Slap (Parlier photo)

Moving on, I set my sights on the short steep wall right behind me. I flashed Enzyte, a great problem with a nice round top out, a la Mcaffe's Knob. Next up was Adhesion, a short, crimpy roof problem. After a go or two, I solved it. The final established problem on the wall I did was Cohesion, just to the right of Adhesion...similar climbing just with bigger holds. Lastly i tried an new, possibly undone line to the right of Cohesion: "Opposition" Starting on an undercling, poopt to the lip for a techy top out. Fun even if it is short.

Steve on Enzyte (Parlier photo)

At this point I ran into Aaron P and Steve L, who have been developing the bouldering there. Surprised to see any one out there, they both were ready and willing to give a tour (thanks guys!). So off we went. Next up was Minima, another short roof with a nice sloper top out. I watched Steve give it a few goes, got some beta from Aaron, and then flashed.

Steve moving through Minima (Parlier Photo)

Next up was a line recently put up by Aaron, the Secant Line. The problem starts on a gaston and undercling, then up a slopey arete, finishing with a toss to the top. After unlocking some different foot beta, I was able to send the line.

grappling with the Secant Line (Parlier photo)

Check. (Parlier photo)

The next to last boulder we saw as the "building boulder", which had a old dilapidated building that was built INTO the boulder. Crazy. The choice line, also the most unique is the Door Way problem, where one climbs OUT of the building to a classing SE top out...best problem of the day for me.

Doorway Problem! (Parlier photo)

For the finale, we checked out the unclimbed, tall arete to the right of the Minima wall, aptly named Maxima. We cleaned the line up a bit, chalked it and then night fall came. Anxious to at least get a burn in on the line, we all booted up. I flashed through the start to the "point of commitment" but darkness got the better of me as I bailed. Aaron had a similar experience. A very nice line...one of the best here.

Overall, the Bluefield boulders are a gem in the rough. Aaron and Steve have worked hard to establish quality lines, and will no doubt continue to locate more. No approach, quality rock, and overall convienence make this field worth a stop if you are in the area.

2009-11-10T15:03:00.003-05:00

Like pulling down on some the finest sandstone in the east? Then now is a chance to show your love and give back a little bit to your favorite destination: The New River Gorge

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
New River Gorge Trail Day - Help Needed!
New River Gorge, WV November 14, 2009
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Greetings from the New River Alliance of Climbers and the New River Gorge! We're putting out a call for volunteers to help on Saturday, November 14, because we and our good friends at the NPS are looking forward to making large dents in two main projects:

Re-vegetation planting at Junkyard Wall and Bridge Buttress. This is the project for which Kenny Parker's bald head raised in excess of $1500 dollars back at the Rendezvous. Come be a part of what Kenny's hair purchased!
Remove the remains of the old wooden ladders from Endless Wall. The wood that used to be our access to and from the crown jewel of NRG climbing will be recycled into the new Fayetteville free-ride park. It's a historic moment you won't want to miss!

We'll meet Saturday morning at 8:30 am at Burnwood (where the Rendezvous is held - view map), then divide into three groups and conquer. Please bring your own food and water. Questions? Feel free to email NRAC Prez, Gene Kistler (gene@waterstoneoutdoors.com).

Please come and help out, and then climb with us in the beautiful November weather!

Thanks!
The NRAC Board
SEE YOU THERE!!

New River Alliance of Climbers PO Box 145 Fayetteville, WV 25840 gene@waterstoneoutdoors.com

Beast Coast Bozoo Blowout 2.0

2009-11-09T22:25:00.013-05:00

Trying to figure out the best way to say "Thanks liver, you got us through another one," is a little more difficult than it seems. When you see--at 9 p.m.--the sandwich you ate at noon floating in the toilet with what looks to be your soul, you know it's been a good day of bouldering. Not to mention the cloudless sky, leafless trees, whispering river, hawks soaring through the canyon, texture-out-the-ass sandstone, and alcoholic beverages-a-plenty. Oh, yeah, and some killer tunes. There might've only been three of us on Sunday, but we brought enough funk for six, maybe seven thousand. Trash was slung, boulders were scrubbed, beers were pounded, more trash was slung, then someone said, "Hey, let's take some photos." And it was good.

Thrutching up some dope blunt arete-ness : The Chub

Jay following suit . . .

. . . and Adam for the send.

Another of Adam on The Chub

Adam working the upper moves of a perfectly tall prow to trad-ish topout. So good!

Slappin' the slot

. . . from another angle.

Pulling up onto the slab

Reach, motherfucker!

Pointing at the sloper with all four fingers

Sloper: 1, Jay: 0

Hollywood pulling out of the cave and up onto the arete

As W reaches for the lip, Jay can't help but join in the fun

Hollywood discovering how deep the pornhole really goes . . .

Basking in the porn cave's central air conditioning

Yet another amazing slab

sussing out the middle moves

the suss continues

and the send rolls out like velvet

eyeballin' with heels

then givin' some right palm to right ass cheek

W squeezin' out all the goodness this arete has to offer

Knee-deep in the Rabbit Blog hole

this is called the 211 spot

That's it for the photo-log. There's enough here to keep your fingers sweaty til next Sunday. But there's more, oh yes, there's more. Video to come within the next two days. Dear readers and fellow climbers, did you really think we'd hold out on you? The Beast Coast is back in full-tilt-stumble-drunk action! More to come.

Joe

2009-11-08T19:14:00.005-05:00

Young dave has left the BLK for wacky Hueco...here is a short video before he left....

The Flinger, V8, Bozoo, WV

http://david-reis.blogspot.com/2009/10/bozoo.html

feel free to give dave heck at david-reis.blogspot.com ! He has been wandering the El Paso scene....

xoxo

aw

The Beast Coast Hits Bozoo

2009-11-07T21:28:00.008-05:00

The temps were succulent today: sunny, breezy, Coors original-y. Cliff and I hit Bozoo to remind the blocs what fingers feel like--they hadn't forgotten. We hit what I'm gonna call the warm-up boulder and did a few rounds on that, moving to the porn cave shortly after. Once there, with Beck on full volume, I finally got Gina Michaels, a sick toe-hook, heel-hook, roof, arete, sloper, crimper, pinchy ultra classic. Seriously, that problem has got it all. After that, we did some wondering and found a few more boulders up river, possibly some very hard stuff, definitely some very fun stuff. Pics from those tomorrow for sure. After Gina Michaels, we packed up and went to this tall, multi-dihedral bloc and cleaned a few lines. That's Cliff on the bloc's right arete. Good and tall. Everything on this boulder's going to be supremely proud. We got the left arete, too, which is a blunt arete that climbs into a slopey slab. So good! More tomorrow after the send-fest.

Cliff getting ready to order three taquitos and a big gulp at the Slap 'n Squeeze

Joe sending the multi-dihedral's left arete.

Cliff sending every problem on the warm-up boulder at the same time.

This pic isn't from today, but I couldn't resist showing two sightings of the fabled Mexican.

And another . . .

BRMS Rock Shoe Demo

2009-10-14T17:35:00.003-05:00

Blue Ridge Mountain Sports Rock Shoe Demo!

Thursday, October 22nd, from 5-9pm

Test drive 5.10 and Evolv shoes

Climb all evening: $8 adult / $6 kids

some more pics from Sunday...

2009-09-30T14:53:00.005-05:00

party begins...hikers in nearby cars are very confused!

ropes? we don't need no stinking ropes...sept to hold up our pants!

the warm up begins!

...and Adam suggests "crimping harder" and "don't suck for five seconds" Joe..."like this".

sweet! Scott sends!!

Jen wisely and happily rests before crushing!

view of the peanut gallery

a drinking blog with a climbing problem...

2009-09-28T16:33:00.006-05:00

The crew was itching Sunday after a Saturday of constant rain...and the temps were best we have seen in months. The word "sticky" comes to mind, if not, atleast not slick or humid. Normal for the rest of the world. So after the wind dried out the boulders and beers were purchased, the party started at the McAfee's Knob Fire Road boulders:

Highlights...

6/4 arete saw a pile of personal firsts: Matt D, Scott F, Joe L, and Jenn (FFA?!?!)

A gay alien scooter was discovered roaming the mountain...possible scout from the colony?

Even the ever ellusive Bernard was seen out and about the boulders. Truely a rare sighting of this unique creature. Consider yourself lucky if your are fortunate to ever gaze upon him.

After few beers, attempts were made on Whitney (v10), but no one got lucky...

more pics to come!

Parting shot: This guy has never been bouldering with us...he is obviously confused. These guys are close...bet they could drink more if they diched the ropes...

STUPID RAIN

2009-09-26T09:28:00.005-05:00

Yeah, pretty sure it's gonna continue raining...resulting in free time. And the result...

...happy Saturday! and remember, it's never too early to grab a "sloper". So, go ahead and plan an indoor session of wood pulling and hope the sun returns soon enough to dry the rock before Monday returns.

tha HYPE is REAL!

2009-09-23T19:34:00.013-05:00

...and some un-tampered pics of center line "Wynona's Big Brown Beaver"

and here are some pics of the sweet summer action as it has gone down so far...tall, short (sometimes down right stumpy), fun, hard, crimpy, mantles and of course heady--all bases are covered- 'sept course super slopey. we'll save those guys for the coming season

Jen attempting a tall one on Tenn Whiskey wall...later became Birthday FA sent by Curtis- "I Can Cry if I Want to"...and quickly repeated by Walker

Joe and Kent working the left line "Sprinkles" and right line "Flight of the Locust"

no name warm up on sweet boulder Walker and I cleaned...and tapped

Walker sending "Sunny Seattle"

Planet Rock warm up

Joe Lambert- Birthday FA day...Walker looking on (with sweet wife beater tan line)

...looking poised, NOT- fell off only seconds later

Hollywood (aka-Walker) on Cupcake boulder

Construction Joe- attempting to solve Sprinkles

Walker on upper waterfall arete- don't worry, Jen's got your spot...somewhere below in that four foot drop not captured here

2009-09-23T08:35:00.002-05:00

UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!

We have been bouldering a ton as the summer winds down. Fall is in the air and the leaves are just starting to crunch as they cover the trails of our favorite crags.For some, NEW projects found and sent (pic below of Adam and Scott problem solving what would ultimately become "Wynona's Big Brown Beaver" after Adam crushed). For myself, unfortunately, I have several new projects. Some of which are considered "warm ups"...oh well.

Check back often as we attempt to get ourselves organized enough to provide information about climbing trips, crag access, parties, gym sessions and other sweetness! and of course, share pictorial evidence of our success and ignorance.

Summer update

2008-08-27T11:41:00.003-05:00

McAfee's summer update:

Phil FA'd two short problems across from Afrika Bambatta in the Grotto. While short, both are good introductions to McAfee's slopey top outs while not getting far off the ground.

1) Phil's Mantel 1 V1 SDS on rail and top out vial slopers.

2) Phil's Mantel 2 V1 SDS on rail and top out via slopers

Just to the right of these problems in the corner is...

3) Saucer V3 SDS on bad slopers/ fist jams and top out via pinch-runnels and slopers.

and a poorly cleaned problem about 15-20 to the right of this is...

4) unnamed V0 face via slimpers.

On the Mushroom boulder, another warm up was established to the right of the Pistol Grip problem.

5) Revival V1 start low on twin crimps, and climb face via crimps and high sidepull.

Lastly, Adam's Circus Trick was re-established after the hold breakage. This obscure and awkward problem is located on the F.E.A. boulder. It starts where the roof meets the ground on a blocky left hand under cling and right hand on thin undercling. Shouldery. Joe R took some video of the send.

Beware: contains stumpy content not suitable for some climbers

Bring on the sweet conditions!!!!

The Octagon and Farm House boulders

2008-05-31T18:11:00.010-05:00

A few new problems have gone up at Moores Wall, speciffically at the 2mile ridge areas.

Octagon:

After Stephen M. FA'd Octagon (v9), it was followed up with the quick 2 & 3rd by Rodney B. and Nate D, respectively. While climbing there, Nate added a left start, also wieghing in at around V9.

Farm House: Just the climbers right of the Highball problems, two problems were recently climbed. They are located in a mini-cave .

1) Plunger, V3: Start on left side on large jug. Traverse left via sidepull to arete & top out. the "pedistal" feature is off route.

2) The Diving board, V0: start on the right side of the cave on the jug. Traverse the lip to the "diving board feature and top out. This one may have been climbed before...if so, whats the name?

Below the the high ball boulder in a short steep boulder (about 8 ft tall and 120deg angle). Neil and Stu established a problem on the right side. Adam W. recently established a problem out the center.

1) Unnamed as of yet, V 3/4?: start on low jug slot (Right of tree) climb steep bulge/face via pocket/crimps to top out.

2) The Farmer's Daughter, V5?: start on jug at the base of the middle section of the steepness. Climb straight out to much easier section and topout. Tricky opening to casual climbing.

A small photo blitz....

Neil attempting Octagon

Stu climbing a line to the left of Octagon

Photo-sequence of Jenn attempting a warm up...

...and the result.

Photo Assualt conclusion

2008-05-31T17:02:00.004-05:00

Photo Assualt conclusion

The STICKmata, Main area, Moore's Wall

Travis showing composure on Control, 2Mile, Moore's Wall

Sequence of Jenn using some un-conventional beta (ie: short person beta) on the Shermanator Roof. Main area, Moore's Wall

Up next: FAs at 2 Mile satillite areas...

Round 2

2008-03-31T14:15:00.007-05:00

More ammo for the assault...

W & the Vandal, The Valley, Moore's Wall

Henry focusing on the next move of R2V2, Main Area, Moore's Wall

Travis gets experience in the Nice 'un Simulator, 2 Mile , Moore's Wall

Katrina sussing out the upper section of a highball in the Main Area, Moores Wall

Matt trying to hold his breath will attempting the Pedistal Problem, 2nd Mtn, VA

and for all the non believers and chuffers alike...yes I do own a harness.

I Advance Masked, NRG

Distilled Update

2008-03-25T20:36:00.005-05:00

It has come to my attention that Distilled has been left in

a deep dark corner of the blog-o-sphere (there's a fun word) as of late. What was I thinking... So get ready for Distilled, version 2.0: STRONGER, BETTER, FASTER....yeah right...lets just aim for updated on an occasion (how's that for vague). Stay tuned for details.

In the meantime, take cover: PHOTO ASSAULT!!!!!

2-Mile (photos: Jonathon)

Team Trouble: Steven, Travis, & Henry

Warm up problem

Applying some malt liquor to "Thorns"

More of "Thorns"

Unnamed problem near "Thorns"

Henry on "Voltage Boy"

Steven on "Voltage Boy"

TBC...

Asheboro

2008-01-16T20:50:00.000-05:00

I have been checking out the sweet boulderfield on Ridges Mtn, in Asheboro, aka Asheboro Boulders. These boulders are sweet granite blobs that are situated along the ridge and down both sides. In typical SE fashion, the access has been tricky. Currently, one can gain access through becoming a member of the Carolina Climbers Colalition...$25 bucks to protect your favorite NC /SC areas and gain access to a great boulder field.

While bouldering there, I have put up 2 new lines. First, Resurection, located on the Alien Face boulder ascends the bulge to the right of Alien Face. Resurection starts on the horizontal crack and climbs up via a small right hand crimp and a left slopper off a bump from a small crimp, finishing on a typical Asheboro topout. After meetin' and talking to John P., it sounds like this is a likely FA.

The second line, Yellow # 5, is located on the main ridge. With one's back to the Lightning Bolt Crack, walk about 100 feet to a moss covered boulder that is about 7 ft tall. Once there, walk around to the left and you will see a horizontal seam at about 2/3 hieght. Start on the seam/crimp and pull onto the boulder. Now snatch the top and roll over. Not terribly hard, but tricky to pull on. Reminessant of Empty Handed at McAfee's Knob.

Carolina Climber's Coalition

All for now...look for pics of these to come soon!

A New Addition

2007-12-29T14:13:00.000-05:00

One of the final lines to fall on the Roadside boulder has fallen. Dave Tucker fired the first ascent of A New Addition (correct me if I am wrong Dave), which was quickly followed up with the second from John Glassberg. The line is listed on the DRtopo guide as "Roadside Project 1". Dave and John completed the line via small crimps while avoiding the arete and suggested a grade of hard V8. Well done! Also while there, John made the 2nd ascent of Brooklyn Bridge, and confirmed the grade of hard V8.

Hopefully, pictures are to follow soon.

Have a great New Years,

W

Vandalized

2007-11-05T21:46:00.000-05:00

Deep in the boulder fields at Moore's Wall is one of the most beautiful lines around. The Vandal starts deep in the cave, and climbs out via crimps and big toss. Complete the toss, and then pinch your way out the amazing arete. John and Nate from B-town made the 2nd and 3rd, with the W coming in w/ the 4th a few days later. The weather is killer right now...you should probably be out tuggin' instead of reading this.

The W attempting the Vandal

David R on the Vandal

Here is a killer video of this problem done from the stand. Check it out below.
http://www.urbanclimbermag.tv/videos/videoInfo.php?video=942

Untill such time...

-W

Crouch repeats and Broken Wing 2.0

2007-07-05T11:13:00.000-05:00

With the summer heat in most of us have chucked our pads into the closet and grabbed the rope. Well most of us...

David R. and Spencer B. have both repeated the Crouch Dyno (solid V6) at McAfee's Knob. Both came heartbreakingly close on their first day's attempts. These will make the 2nd and 3rd ascents, respectively. David thought the problem was deserving of a upgrade to V.7.

On the same day as David's ascent, several new problems were opened. To find the following problems, start walking toward the summint begining at the the trail for the Domino Wall. Walk past the left for the Pocket Arete corridor, and on the right there is a low roof to bulge. There should be a prominent pocket at just above head height on the right side of the bulge.

1) One Eyed Betty, V2/3: SDS under roof on jugs and climb out to lip. Ascend bulge via pocket and left hand pinch.

continue to the right 20 feet and you will find a thin face problem and large pocket problem

2) Bowling for Flute, V1: Follow line of pockets and top out
3) Zumstien problem, V1: step on at jugs and climb face via thin gastons/sidepulls.

Lastly, Serban J. got jacked. Following the lead of the of Zumstein, Serban took a big whip...only his was outside. Missing the pad from the top out of Little Green Men, yeilded Serban a broken forearm. Luckily the break was not too bad and he'll back in 6-8 weeks. If you see Broken Wing 2.0 around, hook him up w/ a beer or two.

be safe,

The W

The Great Bush Hunt video

2007-06-18T17:43:00.001-05:00

The crushing heat is here. 90+ in Blacksburg. Time to tie in and get it on...bouldering season is done. Here is another teaser to get you through the heat. David R on the new moderate, The Great Bush Hunt. Additionally, The Crouch video from a few weeks ago has been changed for the better...a more high quality (less blurry ) version is in its place.

Up next, something different...

Enjoy,

W

End of May Video

2007-05-24T15:35:00.000-05:00

End of May is here and the hot June weather is creeping in...another fresh video to keep everyone psyched and searching out the shady climbs.

Enjoy,

the W

The Money Shot (extended start)

2007-05-14T10:52:00.001-05:00


Last week an ascent (possible FA) of the extended start to The Money Shot was made. Starting on the far right jug/flake, traverse left (avoiding the ramp) and link into The Money Shot. It tilts the scales at around V7ish, but lacks confirmation.

The Crouch video

2007-04-27T11:10:00.001-05:00

OK.... here is the first of a, hopefully, semi-often updated video section. First up, The Crouch at McAfee's Knob. The Crouch is located at the summit on the Project wall. This problem went up this past Spring.

The Crouch, McAfee's Knob

Repeats and pics

2007-04-25T18:58:00.000-05:00

Truc Allen repeated Head Gasket for its second ascent on Sunday. Truc thought it to be slightly easier in dificulty compared to Domino...V6+. Below are pics from the send by Tom M.

Jon Bernard on the new problem Ramsey...

and the classic Deed dyno

The Lost City

2007-04-20T16:35:00.000-05:00

In the past week, McAfee's Knob has been in season. Lower down on the mountian, Truc A. saught out more climbing to add to the Fire Road boulders. after a rain day hike/search, Truc located the Lost City boulders, just shy of the 30 min mark from the parking lot. Vertical and techy, the Lost City boulders is a change from the steep lines seen on most of the fire road area boulders. The pictures are taken by Jason Simpson, and a topo will follow.

McAfee's Knob summit area developement

2007-04-11T16:42:00.000-05:00

In the past week more ascents have been added to the areas around the summit of McAfee's Knob. Most of the new development has been located on the proper side of the summit. The first area to see additional development was the Afrika Baambatta sector. This area saw six more ascents. This topo is updated to reflect a mistake in a previous post...Forager and the Shelf are located 2 "bays" over from this sector. No problems currently exist in the "bay" directly next to Afrika Baambatta.

14) Zulu Nation V7: SDS on low shelf in middle of the wall. Traverse left, linking into Afrika Baambatta.
15) The Great Bush Hunt V3: SDS as Zulu Nation, but climb straight up the face via jugs and slopers.

Located on the same boulder as Alez Oops, to the left on the far arete are two more moderates. Indiana and the Temple of Plates tackles the arete while The Tucan ascends the face to the right.
16) Indiana and the Temple of Plates V2: SDS on low ledge on arete. Climb arete via pockets and slopers.
17) The Tucan V3: SDS on crack and sidepull. Climb face w/ jugs and sidepulls.

Just in front the previous problems is a nice easier problem, Bruce's Vale.
18) Bruce's Vale V0: start on ledge, climb face.

Also just in front of the other problems is the Pyramid. This boulder is a pyramid with two climbable aretes.
19) Ghiza V0: starts on pocket and sidepull.
20) Ramsey V2: SDS on jug/undercling and edge. Climb arete.

The next set of development was on the boulders located behind the Err boulder. The Intergalactic boulders climb in two different styles, but both feature quality moderates.
1) Diamond traverse V2: Start on flake, traversing right and topping out at highpoint
2) Diamond direct V2: SDS on edges and climb face.
3) Monarch Slab V0: climb slab, starting on edges
4) Leave it to cleaver V2: Start on flake and climb face.
5) Space Ghost V2: Start on the dog bowl and climb the overhanging face.
6) The Warm up V2: SDS on pocket and edge. Climb face with sidepulls to an easy top out.
7) Little Green Men V3/4: sds on flat jugs in the "notch". Climb face with slopes to a "long" move.
8) Bernard problemV2: sds on edge and flat pinch. Long moves at the top.

In the Visor area, four new problems were established. Also while there, the classic white face problem was cleaned more, making it more user friendly.

1) Tuber V1: sds in the "perch position" and climb out.
2) The Reach Around V1: SDS low on arete and face. Climb arete, around tree, and finish at pinical.
3) Classic White Face V4: SDS in middle of face. Climb to top not using aretes. CLASSIC
4) V1: sds on sloper ledge and over bulge/
5) PROJECT V?: absurdly low start on awkward jugs. Climb bulge.
6) The Hole V2/3: SDS on low jug and shelf. Traverse face and top out just shy of arete.

Lastly, on the project wall, a new problem was climbed. The Crouch, was the right most project. The Crouch ascends the face via a steep dyno to a good ledge.
1) Vesper Bell V6: start standing, while grasping two opposing sidepull/pinches. After pulling on and setting your feet, toss high to a sloper. Match it up and top out to the right

2) The Crouch V6/7: Start matched on large edge, establish into the "crouch" via tricky underclings, then toss to the corner/ledge.

Alpha Site

2007-04-01T19:09:00.000-05:00

Alpha Site FA's

Jenn and I visited Alpha Site, just outside of C-ville, over the past few days. The rock is well featured and has great texture...the style is reminiscent of Hound Ears. We established a few new lines and did some area classics. ***You might notice that I have somehow "lost" the ability to rotate images in the blog...so a few might be a touch off.

Two new problems went up at the C-ville field, Alpha Site. The first problem was a standing project on one of the taller boulders at the field. Welcome to J.A.M. Rock starts on a few jugs followed through a traverse on sharp crimps. After campusing through the last of the crimps, you toss around the corner to positive side pulls and then jugs to the top. It weighs the scales at around 6+/7-

The second problem a link-up. The Antagonized is essentially a left sit start to the Crack. SDS on a large left side pull and a sharp right, cross through to another good side pull and catch an good edge. Control your swing and finish up the crack. A good moderate at around v5

Jenn on the Blunt arete...

and the start of the Flake problem

Pictures of new problems

2007-03-29T13:39:00.000-05:00

Highlights from the new problems

Josh on Arabesque

Truc making the first ascent of Dumpster Porn, to the right of Arabesque

Head Gasket

For Whom the Bell Tolls

2007-03-23T09:59:00.000-05:00

Jon B. and I headed out to the Knob for a night session. During the fading light of the session, the first ascent of The Vesper Bell was made. The Vesper Bell starts standing, while grasping two opposing sidepull/pinches. After pulling on and setting your feet, toss high to a sloper. Match it up and top out to the right via a jug and a typical McAfee's Knob assortment of holds. The Vesper Bell rings in at aroundV6ish.

The Vesper Bell is located on the near side of the summit. It is found on the boulder that creates the right hand turn to walk down to the Domino Wall. The Vesper Bell is on the left side of the first face you see as you walk up the trail, 25 feet before the right hand turn for the Domino Wall. Pics to come soon.

6 more, hot off the grill...

2007-03-20T08:48:00.000-05:00

Monday was spent scrubbing and searching for more lines on top of McAfee's Knob. Some goodness was found. Most of the new lines are in the Maze and Regan's Nose areas, which are located past the summit. To get there, follow the summit cliff line till it turns into a maze of boulders, or, consult DrTopo's McAfee guide for an overview map. Definitely get out and check out the lines that have gone up!

Directly across from Journey lies two more casual problems:
12) Allez Oop: sds on jugs, climb face and arete. V1
13) Unnamed: start in jug slot, climb face via sidepull/gaston. V1

Over in the Maze area are three more.
Just down between the ships prow area and the walk down into the maze is Arabesque. It lies closer to walk in ramp between the boulders.
1)Arabesque: sds on low incut jugs, and climb up sharp crimps to a sloper. V4

While walking towards Devil's Kitchen (on top of the boulders), there are two more casual problems. They are locate next to a convenient walk down.
2) Gnome Sex : sds on undercling, and climb face to top out. V2
3) Midget Toss: sds on iron rails, and climb face V2

The last of the freshness is in the Regan's Nose area. With your back to Regan's Nose, the boulder is just in front of you, behind the bushes. Head Gasket ascends the bright orange face.
4) Head Gasket: sds on positive flake and low shallow pinch. Climb the face by gaston/sidepull, and nice iron rail pocket. Arete is off.

If you climb any of these and feel that the grades are wack or the topos got you no where near the above, leave a remark and we'll fix it.

FAs abound

2007-03-14T08:31:00.000-05:00

After giving Dave a tour of the proper half of the summit, I realized there were not a ton of established boulders. We wandered for a good bit and decided to come back and scrub the lichen off of a few and see what we could find.

Monday...

After 2 and a half hours of scrubbing, I unearthed about 8 or so new lines on an unclimbed boulder. The boulder is on the left as you come up the trail, just before the trail for the Pocket arete corridor. A topo follows at the end along with some pics from Jason Simpson...click the topo to enlarge.

1)Tuscora arete: V-basic, sds V1
2)Slab 1: start on pocket/dimples and go up via undercling side pull- V0
3)Slab 2: start on sloper rail and go up via gaston and sidepulls- V0
4)Dalian Face: SDS on pinch and sloper and go up via side pull and pinch- V2
5)Rode Wet: SDS on low shelf and go up via edges and jugs- V2
6)Hope: SDS on obvious incut rail and climb face- V2
7)Err: SDS on low jugs and climb up via jug and side pulls- V1 Variation: SDS on sloper shelf to right- V0
Err

After finding and climbing these Dan and Jason both arrived and started to spin through the above. In the mean time I wandered a bit and cleaned 3 more lines. The first two are on the other side of the trail, just before the previously mentioned boulder.

8)The shelf: sds on low jugs and climb tall face- V0 (possibly climbed before?)
9)Forager: sds on crimps/edges and climb short face via bump and side pull V3/4
Forager

After, I showed Jason and Dan a wall not far from there. Here we put up two new problems. Journey is a tall problem ascends a sweet face via pocket/jugs with the topout guarded by a long reach. Afrika Baambatta is 10 feet before Journey and is a shorter problem with a neat toss.

10)Afrika Baambatta: sds on low pockets and climb face via good holds to a pinch and toss. V5
11)Journey: sds on undercling and angle up and right to top out just by tree. V2
Dan on Afrika Baambatta

If anyone goes out and has a different impression of grade, topo accuracy, or what not, leave a remark and we'll try to keep a consensus of whats what.
Click to enlarge

Knight

2007-03-11T21:52:00.000-05:00

After a night of beer drinking and heckling, I woke up disoriented and (thanks to day lights saving time) completely unsure of the damn time. A bit of wobbling around the house for some water and finding my shoes and shit, I realized I was late to meet Dave R at the McAfee's parking lot (for those who remembered the time change). After racing out to the parking lot and the punishing hike that ensued, I made it to the top, still hungover and feeling able to eat finally.

After a bit, I showed Dave Domino, a sweet bulge problem. Unfortunately, the sun was creeping right over the bulge making the toss pretty hard, so I decided to work the project that comes off of it. The project hits a 2 finger pocket after Domino's first move and heads right via a crystal crimp and some good slopers to top out on the crimpy V3 to the right. After about 15 or 20 minutes, the thing unraveled and was ready to be sent; even the sun had moved on. One try and the link was fired.

Photo sequence by JS

Kehl show and Boone

2007-03-11T20:46:00.000-05:00

The other day was the Jason Kehl slide show, which was pretty sweet. Lots of climbing infused with art, all shown through Jason's unique perspective...definately check out the show if you get a chance. Afterwards, a bunch of us went out w/ Jason for some dinner and beers. While getting rowdy, a posse formed to head south to Boone.

After an early start, we caught up w/ Horton to hit up some sweet boulders @ G-mother. The BFC chairman was down, but not out w/ shingles...he still got it up and pulled down. The boulders were a nice change for standard issue Boone; easy on the skin. I think we climbed 15 or so problems of all types and our skin wasn't too hurt. Highlights included flashing an amazing tall, orange, pockety crimp face. Tall, perfect incut edges, and firey orange...this thing is killer. A second higlight was getting the second ascent of a cool dyno just behind the tall one. Gently overhanging and ever so slightly slopey holds make this problem way fun.

Truc on the beautiful tall problem. Photo by Matt Berhens

2007-02-23T12:15:00.000-05:00

Jason Kehl show
February 23rd, 8pm
Blue Ridge Outdoors
125 N Main St, Blacksburg VA
540.552.9012

Snow...finally

2007-02-12T13:19:00.000-05:00

I went solo to Bozoo yesterday. Having never been there after any significant snow fall, I was pretty surprised at what was climbable. With just a bit of time dedicated to snow removal, I climbed a problem or two in just about every area. Not to mention, the snow probably kept most people inside , so it was a beautifully white and quiet day. A partial list of things that stay dry or need very little snow removal:

The Blok: The Thing, Driver 8, Thoraxic, Grinding for Tips
The Crown: juggy warm ups...though kicking some snow outta the "crown" is advised
Hershey Kiss boulder: everything, except the tall easy problem in the middle
45 wall: Everything...only a little light seeping; not anything that can't be dried w/ a towel/chalk
Fire pole: Everything
French Tits boulder: French Tits

The highlight, asides from not falling through any of the frozen creeks, was getting the second ascent of The Flame. The problem looks like nothing and appears to be easy, but it is deceptive. With two tough moves in four, it packs a little heat in there. Using a little different beta than Truc (and being a little taller, which is not so good on this one), I agree that its about V7 or so.

Jason Simpson took the following pics one afernoon while I was flounderin' on this problem when it was about 70 in January

Along came Humpty Dumpty

2007-02-09T15:45:00.000-05:00

Soooo....

Two weeks ago, Adam Z. made a quick second try ascent of the Bozoo highball Forbidden Fruit. The first attempt resulted in a cartwheeling, sideways digger onto the ground. With no injuries asides some bent glasses, Adam sacked up again, and sent.

a week or so later....

Hanging at the gym, Adam took a reasonably sized fall onto the pads. Absurdly bad luck took over this time... Adam is on the mend. If you see him around town, buy the dude a beer.

Winter is back in effect

2007-01-21T18:23:00.000-05:00

With Jenn starting school @ UVa again this week, I have found myself back in C'ville for this weekend. We had plans for two days of pulling ,but nothing other than that. I was gonna just be glad to be outside and feeling good after recovering from the appearance of the Tequila Monster earlier in the week.

Jenn and I busted out a typically late start to Moorman's after a late brunch. I was hoping to head there to dispatch False Witness and Jen was gunnin' for the main wall's traverse. I was secretly hoping to have time to go try the Egg @ Sugar Hollow again and myabe Great White. But first we had to get the ball rolling...

After suffering through the wind for a bit, the body and fingers started to feel good. While we were warming up we met two locals, Vern ( a HS principal ) and Tim. Both were really nice and it sounds like Tim had quite a bit to do with bolting the conglomerant canyon of Maple, UT. Kinda of a small world...if you haven't been to Maple, then you should...its surreal to climb there: imagine a wall of cobble stones of all angles, with each cobble ranging from pea to chest size. Unreal and a bit disconcerting, though all pretty solid.

Anyhow, back to the day of tuggin'...I did False Witness pretty fast and while Jenn tried the main wall traverse for a bit. While we there hanging out with Vern and TIm, we learned that Sunday was to be the day Winter was gonna come roaring back to life. The skinny was snow followed by sleet and freezing rain. So after a bit of debating, we decide to bust it over to Sugar Hollow to try some problems today in case we missed out on climbing Sunday. After doing Great White, we scoped some new problems on an adjoining wall and decided to leave as that the temps were getting nasty.

Epiloge: It snowed, sleeted, and freezing rained all day on Sunday

False Witness

Summer in Winter?

2007-01-15T17:29:00.000-05:00

Jenn and I went to McAfee's Knob with the intent of getting some, if any, bouldering in since it had rained hard the night before. Well, some of it was dry and we put in a pretty casual session in hopes of getting drier and cooler weather the tomorrow...which for Winter that wouldn't normally be a tall order. We live in Bizarro land...this winter we have more 55+ days than I can remember, and tomorrow is to be nearly 70. Guess we will see what happens...

After a night of a lot of Tequilla and a pile of 24 episodes, its nearly 55 at 9am. By noon its almost 65. At the crag, the car thermometer says its 70. Well damn, I guess Winter might not arrive this year.

After rallying a posse together (Mike & Jason), we headed to Bozoo since the NRG was looking rainy. Upon arriving there, we ran into some friends: Truc, Heidi, Abbie, Philip and Jeb. Taking the HOT weather in stride we busted out a good circuit. Jason made a quick ascent of a V3 mantel problem in the warm up area. Mike came desperately close to a v6 roof to mantel in the same area, while Jenn made progress on a traverse located on the Hersey boulder. Truc gave a little beta on the Flame, allowing me to come super close to doing it in BAD conditions...maybe next time.

After finishing up at the Hersey/warm up area, we finished up at the 45 degree wall with Jeb and Philip. They, Mike, and Jenn tried Forbiden Fruit while I did Destro, the middle sit start into both the pinch and crimp finishes and the Mothena problem. All in all a great day in the rediculously warm weather.

Clockwise: Mike on the warm up roof mantle, Truc on the Flame, and Jenn on Forbidden Fruit

***now that I am writing this watch it snow 2 feet

Decepticon

2006-12-22T17:12:00.000-05:00

Wheew!!!

Christmas has come and gone...and its still nearly 55 outside in January. Kinda freaky.

Jason and I went out early for a dawn session at Mickey Mouse boulders on McAffee's knob. Well, almost dawn since I was off the back, which probably wasn't a big deal since it was in the mid 20's then.

It was definitely chilly during the warm ups. Numb toes and fingers made it hard get some flow, but after a bit the juices started to flow. It was a short productive morning. Jason sent the Flake problem in a 3-4 goes..no problem. After fumbling around and what not I managed to send the extended start to Attamatapia, a project (I think). It starts on a sloping jug and follows a heel draggin' sloper traverse to the start of Attamatpia and then links into it. Whiole its the epitopmy of "low-ball", its got fun moves in a cool position/setting. Unless its been done prior, lets call it "Decepticon". Jason took the folowing photos.

Touring the Candy Shop

2006-11-06T14:11:00.000-05:00

Saturday and Sunday brought some of the best conditions so far this Fall, as Jenn and I found ourselves in C-ville. Since neither of us felt like driving over the mountain to the Harrisonburg crags/boulders, we decided to take a second look at the Sugar Hollow boulders.

Sugar Hollow is similar to the blobby granite that one can find north of C-ville at Old Rag, except its a little more quartz-ish. Anyhow, the traveled problems are great, while the less traveled problems are still shedding a bit. Most of the problems fall into the V0-V4 realm, but there are 3-4 harder problems as well.

We had visited nearly a year ago to check out the local hard problem, the Egg (v9?), but cold and wind made the day less than ideal. This time we were met with sun and no wind. To warm up for the Egg re-match, we checked out some nice lines bellow the Egg, the highlights being the Pipe Line Arette and a Short Sloper Problem. The arette, while easy (V1), is asthetic and has an exciting landing. Definitely fun! The short sloper problem, located just a stones throw from the arette, started on a nice jug SDS, to a jug and a technical mantle topout using a neat fin feature. Different for sure, and pretty fun.

The heater problem for the day was the Egg. A bit of starring and thinking jogged memories of beta from Dave Tucker. After a few tries the first move finally revealed its self; boiling down to my trying not to suck for a second or two. A few attempts at the top make sure it was sussed out, led to a few near sends. A quick break for wine tasting @ Oakcroft (only $1 !!!) and some coffee, and a few more tries left me with sore skin and no more attempts. Maybe next time. Way psyched to come back and check out the other hard problems!

Jenn wrestling with problem #4

Topo
1) Egg Arete: SDS on arete
2) Egg (v4 & v8+/9?) (fa: Glassberg): SUS on sloper and gaston. Arete is off.
SDS on edges and climb into SUS. Arete is off
3) SDS on big sloper
4) ??? (V3) SDS on big sloper jug/side pull. Up via edges and side pull
5) ??? (V2) SDS on jug/flake
6) Traverse (V5) same as 5) but traverse left and top out 3 feet shy of the boulder's edge
7) ??? SDS on crack. Top out on arete.
8) Pipe Line Arete (v1): SDS on sloper.
9) ??? (V3/4) SDS onlow eyebrow jug. Top out via fin feature, pockets and crimps.
10) ??? (V6) SDS on jug climb roof with edges.
11) ??? (V6) SDS & climb crack
12) Great White (V7) (fa Berhens): SDS on sloper and edge. Climb up via crimps and pocket.
13) Start under roof on crack and edge. Climb out roof to face and top out. Beware of pipe line.
14) various warm ups.

The Season is here!!!

2006-11-03T13:56:00.000-05:00

It looks like some cooler weather is finally in for a bit. Which is a much need change of pace after a way hot summer. Jon, Tom, Jenn and I went up to McAfee's Knob this past weekend and were psyched to sample some great friction.

We found a new boulder (dubbed Quattro) and put up 4 new lines on it. Nothing way hard, but really cool moderates. To find the boulder, start at the Arrow Head boulder, walk about 50-80 feet up the trail, and the boulder will be immediately on your right. If you come across the block in the trail , then you missed Quattro. It is has a featured vertical face at about 7-8 feet tall. The new problems are listed from right to left. Pictures to come...

1) un-named, v0 (FA Bernard) SDS on jugs, go up and left to crack system and top out.

2) A Cups, V4 (FA Walker) SDS same as 1, head up and right to rail. At end of rail, top out directly above on slopers and a finger lock.

3) Mud Puppy, V3 (FA Walker) SDS in middle of wall on jugs, and go straight up to lie back. Top out via great lock/pocket and slopers

4) Raising Brows, V2 (FA Walker) SDS on left side at pockets/edges. head up w/ right hand to eye brow and lef to edge. Side pull a sloper and reach for the jug.