Running late as usual...

It was delayed...but its finally here.  Unfortunately the psyche it might build may have to last you till Spring, because LRT access is about to close till spring.

Whats a classic?  I don't know after 15+ years of searching, suffering, sending, and failing.   Trying to define it is a great challenge.  You know it...but how to describe it, or distinguish it from the low balls, choss, and other lesser quality lines?

Why LRT out of all the areas at GHSP?
1) its a 5 minute walk with great scenery
2) largest quantity of problems
3) wide diversity of grades and styles.

What lines? Well some we had already shot, some we never had a great chance.  They should all at least start at an obvious hold/feature, be striking, have a flat landing, and be friendly to climb on.  Eliminants, bizarre starts, and poor hold/rock quality are definitely "no's"

Four got captured on video: Beast master, Escape from Alcatraz, The Hive, Nancy w/ an E.  Not featured, but must do's if you are here: SLS, Kitten Mittens, Shanghi Knights.  All of these are great lines, regardless of the grade...climb them. Enjoy them.

This is our first attempt.  A classic to me may be your choss pile, but we are going to try to search out the lines that are the classics for their area in SWVA none the less.  Stay tuned for more of the Classic series.  Till then enjoy the ones we caught on video!


Classics: LRT @ GHSP from adam walker on Vimeo.

Coming next week...

What makes a problem classic?  position? holds? grade?

Some folks might use logical parameters or a bizarre form of math and online consensus to come up with an idea of what a 5 star classic is.

I don't pretend to know... some folks say I have strange sense of whats good or not.

We are gonna attempt to figure it out over the next few months while bouldering through SWVA, starting with the final GHSP session...



SWVA Classics: GHSP trailer from adam walker on Vimeo.

Until then....W

tantalizingly close

Not a ton going on in the past week.  The roller coaster of hot/less hot has been in full effect, and I think folks are about to be sick from the ride.  The full season is just around the corner.  Hopefully we have all paid our dues to crush in eminent future!  So dig out the down, grab the chalk pot, and begin the count down to crush time.

Speaking of crush, young Dave has followed his compass West, yet again, in search of difficult pebbles.  Last check had Dave headed for Joe's Valley in search of the RAD.  Take a moment and check his blog.

As promised a new video...but not only one, but two!  First is probably the final installment of the GHSP sessions.  Its starting to get prime in other areas, and we have run the course through GHSP...not a lot left to do, but tons of projects else where for the season.  Maybe a one more...


GHSP:3 from LRT from adam walker on Vimeo.


Second is from our lost compadre, Will of Bingo Bango Productions.  We are psyched to have some new contribution to the digital carnival, and can't wait to see what else comes...  without further delay....




Last, but not least, don't forget the photo contest from the previous post!  Become famous for 15 minutes, and have your picture at that top of DS!

W

Photo-asault, contest, and more!

        Finally, the diblitating heat has broken here in SWVA!  Just as I was about to give up all hope and resign myself to my newest hobby.  Time to start sizing up the fall projects and do work!  And if you are looking at GHSP, best get a move on as the access to the LRT boulders will close in the next few weeks till Spring.   Go get it!

A few FAs have gone up in the past week or two with the improving conditions:

Wookin Pa Nub, V8/9 @ GHSP

Undercover Motherfucker (direct), V6 @ Sandstone Mtn  (video to come)

Green Room (sit), V6 @ Sandstone Mtn

Tournament of Champions, V6 @ Nebo

We are gonna run a cool little photo contest for the next bit.  See the title at the top...imagine your photo there for all to gaze upon.  Start snapping pics and email them to DSbouldering@gmail.com .  The contest will end Nov 10.  Just about a month to get some killer shots and submitt them.  The winner might even get a little something special...

Rules (there are always rules, but not many):

1) needs to be in SWVA (2 hr-ish circle around 24060)

2) needs to be somewhere that has open access...no stealth missions

3) submitted by Nov 10th

in the mean time, let part one of the Photo Assualt begin!!!

Josh and W VS Stigmata (v9/10)

Josh VS Stigmata (v9/10)



Cliff VS Smart Tom(v4)



Adam VS Kalashnikov (v6/7)



W VS Worm World (v9)




Truc and W sussing it out



Dave VS Flinger (v8)

There should be a new video up in a few days, but not to disappoint those looking for some sweet videos to keep the psyche up , I got to two to send your way.  First up is a funny music video from Chris Webby.  Check it...




Dos...an LT11 snowboarding video?!?!?  Yeah, its killer.

Gnarcade from Mike Benson on Vimeo.

W out, or as Marco would say, offline.

Fall is on the Horizon

Lots going on in SWVA...

New problem on Sandstone Mtn:  The Green Room, v6.  Start on the ledge under roof and follow rails out to arete and top out.  Video to come soon.

Mtn Nebo had a project go down...more to come.  Double-A-ron?  I'm looking at you!

Coveted 2nd ascents at GHSP have occured over the past little bit.  Down Tempo got a second, though it is not as difficult as originally described (v8).  Climbing a sloper lip for a few moves before easing, Down Tempo clocks in closer to about v6.  A third ascent might be needed to help this problem settle around the accurate grade.  Video to come...

Sigourney Weaver was confirmed at v8+/9-.  Climbing a line of crimps and relying on core tension, this line is fun despite being a lowball.   The start hold crumbled a bit during the repeat process, but no change in difficulty.

Jenn has been reppin' it for the ladies.  She has been putting together a nice list of FFA's from GHSP of late. A few highlights from the late summer season.
Reverie
Frisky Monkey
Casual Tees
Punticilo

and with Thews & Mothership nearly in the crosshairs...and hiking Mike Tyson's Face (5.12), it will be interesting to see what she can do with a bit better conditions. 

While we were at AVP finishing Sigourney Weaver, we noticed some of the holds on Frontman were flexing quite a bit.  We showed up this weekend to warm up, and the holds now moved nearly an inch!  The Richmond crew decided to test the stability of the holds...


Untitled from adam walker on Vimeo.

Last week had 2 great film festivals going on, the Reel Rock Tour and the Radical Reel Tour. The later had some great videos. My personal favorite was the Paxti U. segment from Progression.   Inspirational for trying HARD.  A few pics from the Expo and festival are here.

The Reel Rock Tour was in its second edition at VT.  The VT climbing club raised some money for both NRAC and the Access Fund.  Blue Ridge Mtn Sports helped to pad the donation with a raffle of an Osprey Talon 22. Congrats to Sarah L on winning a sweet pack and giving a donation!

Last, but not least, the first round of the Triple Crown is quickly approaching.  Hound Ears, which is open just once a year for this event, is first up.  Registration is full, so if you have yet to sign up, then you are gonna miss a bad ass session.  Luckily, the after party and gear raffle are open to all, and helps benefit climbing in the SE.  If you have never been, then check out this video for a glimpse into the event and its history!


Triple Crown Bouldering Series 2010 from matt stark on Vimeo.

There you have it....lots to be psyched about as the cooler temps begin to trickle in.  Stay tuned as some cool stuff is about to come down the pike!

Like a broken record...

...is how we have been climbing.  Working the last kinks out of our summer projects at GHSP before the Fall climbing season rolls into the South.  Not a bad thing, as there is plenty to keep up with.

Some notable new problems at GHSP

-Mouth of Wilson (stand)

-Mouth of Wilson (low)

-Frisky Monkey

-When Mommy Hit Daddy 

-Allegiance to the Swag
- and many more...

Brushing the sloper on When Mommy Hit Daddy

So we got a replacement Flip Mino, and guess what, that shit doesn't work.  Moral: don't get a Flip Mino.  Another short from GHSP, shot from the little Canon.  

Jenn: Wing Man & Reverie

W: Tiger Side & When Mommy Hit Daddy

Wyatt: Tilt-a-Whirl

GHSP 4 from adam walker on Vimeo.

 A few from the 24060 got out to the NRG to give a little love to the Junk Yard crag approach.  The Jasons, Jenn, and Mike all got out there, shoveled gravel, laid ties, and helped create a much needed stair system to the crag.  Well done !

top of the trail

Jason

Lots of hard work...almost done!

-W

T minus 5 days...

Folks are starting to come out of hibernation as the Fall season approaches.  Jay and Josh hopped on the train to GHSP this past Sunday to test the waters.  Good to see folks checking out the best summer climbing in VA, and getting psyched to rip when the cool Autumn weather returns.  While checking out some classic hard lines and a few projects, a few FAs were squeezed in: S.W.S. (v6ish), Kitten Mittens (v3), six50 (v3), Stumble (v0).  Lots of great lines to chose from for a late summer project...where to begin?

A quick & dirty vid to keep you psyched...Three from GHSP
1) Jenn cruising up Front Man @ AVP
2) Josh reaching through Paladin on his 2nd or 3rd try...bagging the 3rd(?) ascent of Paladin @ LRT...pretty good for not climbing in 8 weeks.  He also snatched up the first repeat of the odd ball line, Sofa King
3) W on the short crimp problem, Athena @ Olympus

GHSP 3 from adam walker on Vimeo.

Speaking of goodness, the Broce element of BC is getting ready to depart for Seattle and Canada for a week, eh? Friends, seafood & beers, and a few boulders...  Psyched to see what the NW has to offer!

much to come...back in a bit

W

GHSP...again

The 300 Broce elements of bEAST coast have a one track mind it seems, and the track leads right to Grayson Highland State Park at the moment.  A beautiful 75 degree day welcomed us and Mike as we rolled into AVP, where met our friend Philip.

The day at AVP unfolded for each of us:

Mike:, Frontman, stand(v4); Volatile(v3)

Philip: Frontman, sds(v5); Distance Dyno (v4); Volatile(v3); FA of Stilletto

W: Finger Confusion (v7); Casual Tees (v6, flashed); Frontman, sds(v5, flashed); Volatile(v3, flashed)

After a good bit of time at AVP, we re-grouped and headed to the LTR sector.  The "Man-child" area was the our focus, as Mike and Philip were itching to try the two tiger problems, Bengal and Tiger Side.  Phil made progress on Tiger Side, while Mike stayed determined and sent Bengal!

Seattle is coming up quick.  We have been looking to get fit.  A long ways to go, but its a long ways to travel to suck.  Get ready Seattle bEAST COASTERS, the 300 Broce contingent is revving the engine!

Check the media:

Mike on Volatile

W capturing some crappy video

GHSP: AVP & LRT from adam walker on Vimeo.

The computer is back with a new hard drive!  Now back to regular posts?!?!

A few of the bEAST Coasters have been hitting Grayson Highland State Park up over the past few weeks.  In a nut shell, GHSP is pretty sweet and wide open for FAs...get it on.  The team has been grabbing repeats while working in a few FAs along the way.

FA's- Man-Child, Beast Maker, Heavy Footed Swagger, 1Up, Sofa King, Tumble, Of Gum Drops and Sugar Plums, Sugar High, Smurf Turf.  And a load of repeats in the moderate v5-v7 range...time to work some of the harder lines!  Lots to be done...  Can't wait for cooler temps!

Also of note, bEASTcoast is making its way to Seattle to bring some ruckus to former bEAST coasters.  Time to train like Rocky, get some new kicks, and maybe climb more than 2x a week.  Might even go run once or twice.

And now for multi media action!

Mike and the mini ponies

W on Fulgora

Wyatt

W on S.LS.

Scott on Tiger Side

Video from Brad Caldwell

video from Matt Bielejeski

Nexus from adam walker on Vimeo.

A quick an dirty of the 2nd ascent

Out -W

The past week or so has seen some great weather, especially down in the Grayson Highlands State Park...not perfect, but amazing for mid-summer in the south east!  Spray and hopefully some video/pics to come soon..so find an umbrella.

GHSP is good shit, and the possibility of a trip looming on the horizon has got me thinking...might have to get in touch with these guys.  That and maybe climb more than once/twice a week.  Fall is coming...

Foals "Miami" from Team G on Vimeo.

Have a great 4th and enjoy the grilling festivities

W