Area updates, videos, and more

Just a few quick updates of the goings on in SWVA:

Big fire out in Rockingham county...virtually shut out 2nd Mtn the other weekend. Apparently, it was impossible to boulder w/o a respirator.

Back in Giles, a far to common scenario in the South came to a conclusion. Mountain Lake, home to Dirty Dancing and a small collection of boulders has been under a temporary closure while access, liability, etc was evaluated by the land owners. Local climbers with the help and voice of the Mountain Lake Conservancy plead the case to the Board over the course of several months. Unfortunately, the board chose to make bouldering on the property an unsanctioned activity and now consider it prohibited.

To not end on a bummer...a few quick videos.


Freaks and Geeks from Donald  Glover on Vimeo.


VIDEO PROFILE: BD athlete Fred Nicole bouldering in Switzerland from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.


Better Than Chocolate // Trailer from Haroun Souirji on Vimeo.


Another dS video to come next week! More Moore's...

VA Obscurities

Lots going on to jibber about today...grab a beer and get ready:

Uno:  Sale time...like woah, at Blue Ridge!  Evolv Talons 2s, Gri Gri's, Boss Hog pads, select draws, 'biners, harnesses, and lots more are on sale, all weekend.  All in addition to most of the winter clothing.  It all hits 40% off on Sunday & Monday, but don't wait till then because you might miss out.  Stop in for details or check it out online! How could it get better? Gri Gri 2, new Black Diamond draws, rope bags and more all just arrived!

nuff said...

climbing gear on sale!  sneak peek!

Dos: Banff tickets are going WAY FAST.  If you don't have one, you better act quick, or you might get left on the curb March 16th.

Tres: WFA course is going on Mountain Lake soon.  March 26-27th to be exact.  If you play in the woods like we do, then you owe it to your partners and family to know how to deal if shit hits the fan.  Matt is one of the best, and this two day course is primo.  

Quattro:  Obscurities from crags around SWVA


SWVA Obscurities from adam walker on Vimeo.

Tomorrow night...

A five pack of VA Obscurities.

till then the trailer...

VA Obscurities trailer from adam walker on Vimeo.


and a good friend's new instructional guidance for training:



W

Belated Photo Assualt

After needing 30 days to find some reasonable fitness, things are starting to fall into place...  A great break from the scene and training was good for the mind and soul...things have healed, and mind re-sharpened.  While skipping the shallow waters & heading straight for the deep end; we've been trying to pick up where we left off...hoping to not drown along the way.

here is a photo-assualt.  Loaded with some stuff from NC to SWVA

getting ready for the crimps

Andy VS Tsunami (low)

Damaged

Josh VS another unamed obscurity

W vs Project





The Myth VS Krymptic

and a sweet video


More to come soon: Banff 2011, seasonal closures, FAs, and more.

W

mid week quickie

A mid week quickie...


Last post forgot to mention few new FA's, all at GHSP:
The Flying Spaghetti Monster ... v8/9 
The Good Times Are Killing Me ... v6
Power of Jack ... v6
None are confirmed, and the race is on...


Also Ben D ticked the local classics Moneyshot (extended start, v7+) and Brooklyn Bridge (v8).  Dave's Line (v8) next?


In the meantime, Andy C and Justin M, rep'd Radford @ the ABS comp @ Earthtreks (Timonium, MD).  Andy and Justin took the 1/2 in Men's Advanced.

Till the next video from us, we you with 5 from others to get you psyched!  Two words: Gill and Nicole.


Classic Nicole



Classic Nicole composure while demostrating power


Gill in his forties


Gill's take on the passion...



Last is the first repeat of Nicole's classic, Dreamtime, before it was chipped to death.

Dreamtime


-W

Running late as usual...

It was delayed...but its finally here.  Unfortunately the psyche it might build may have to last you till Spring, because LRT access is about to close till spring.

Whats a classic?  I don't know after 15+ years of searching, suffering, sending, and failing.   Trying to define it is a great challenge.  You know it...but how to describe it, or distinguish it from the low balls, choss, and other lesser quality lines?

Why LRT out of all the areas at GHSP?
1) its a 5 minute walk with great scenery
2) largest quantity of problems
3) wide diversity of grades and styles.

What lines? Well some we had already shot, some we never had a great chance.  They should all at least start at an obvious hold/feature, be striking, have a flat landing, and be friendly to climb on.  Eliminants, bizarre starts, and poor hold/rock quality are definitely "no's"

Four got captured on video: Beast master, Escape from Alcatraz, The Hive, Nancy w/ an E.  Not featured, but must do's if you are here: SLS, Kitten Mittens, Shanghi Knights.  All of these are great lines, regardless of the grade...climb them. Enjoy them.

This is our first attempt.  A classic to me may be your choss pile, but we are going to try to search out the lines that are the classics for their area in SWVA none the less.  Stay tuned for more of the Classic series.  Till then enjoy the ones we caught on video!


Classics: LRT @ GHSP from adam walker on Vimeo.

Coming next week...

What makes a problem classic?  position? holds? grade?

Some folks might use logical parameters or a bizarre form of math and online consensus to come up with an idea of what a 5 star classic is.

I don't pretend to know... some folks say I have strange sense of whats good or not.

We are gonna attempt to figure it out over the next few months while bouldering through SWVA, starting with the final GHSP session...



SWVA Classics: GHSP trailer from adam walker on Vimeo.

Until then....W

tantalizingly close

Not a ton going on in the past week.  The roller coaster of hot/less hot has been in full effect, and I think folks are about to be sick from the ride.  The full season is just around the corner.  Hopefully we have all paid our dues to crush in eminent future!  So dig out the down, grab the chalk pot, and begin the count down to crush time.

Speaking of crush, young Dave has followed his compass West, yet again, in search of difficult pebbles.  Last check had Dave headed for Joe's Valley in search of the RAD.  Take a moment and check his blog.

As promised a new video...but not only one, but two!  First is probably the final installment of the GHSP sessions.  Its starting to get prime in other areas, and we have run the course through GHSP...not a lot left to do, but tons of projects else where for the season.  Maybe a one more...


GHSP:3 from LRT from adam walker on Vimeo.


Second is from our lost compadre, Will of Bingo Bango Productions.  We are psyched to have some new contribution to the digital carnival, and can't wait to see what else comes...  without further delay....




Last, but not least, don't forget the photo contest from the previous post!  Become famous for 15 minutes, and have your picture at that top of DS!

W

Fall is on the Horizon

Lots going on in SWVA...

New problem on Sandstone Mtn:  The Green Room, v6.  Start on the ledge under roof and follow rails out to arete and top out.  Video to come soon.

Mtn Nebo had a project go down...more to come.  Double-A-ron?  I'm looking at you!

Coveted 2nd ascents at GHSP have occured over the past little bit.  Down Tempo got a second, though it is not as difficult as originally described (v8).  Climbing a sloper lip for a few moves before easing, Down Tempo clocks in closer to about v6.  A third ascent might be needed to help this problem settle around the accurate grade.  Video to come...

Sigourney Weaver was confirmed at v8+/9-.  Climbing a line of crimps and relying on core tension, this line is fun despite being a lowball.   The start hold crumbled a bit during the repeat process, but no change in difficulty.

Jenn has been reppin' it for the ladies.  She has been putting together a nice list of FFA's from GHSP of late. A few highlights from the late summer season.
Reverie
Frisky Monkey
Casual Tees
Punticilo

and with Thews & Mothership nearly in the crosshairs...and hiking Mike Tyson's Face (5.12), it will be interesting to see what she can do with a bit better conditions. 

While we were at AVP finishing Sigourney Weaver, we noticed some of the holds on Frontman were flexing quite a bit.  We showed up this weekend to warm up, and the holds now moved nearly an inch!  The Richmond crew decided to test the stability of the holds...


Untitled from adam walker on Vimeo.

Last week had 2 great film festivals going on, the Reel Rock Tour and the Radical Reel Tour. The later had some great videos. My personal favorite was the Paxti U. segment from Progression.   Inspirational for trying HARD.  A few pics from the Expo and festival are here.

The Reel Rock Tour was in its second edition at VT.  The VT climbing club raised some money for both NRAC and the Access Fund.  Blue Ridge Mtn Sports helped to pad the donation with a raffle of an Osprey Talon 22. Congrats to Sarah L on winning a sweet pack and giving a donation!

Last, but not least, the first round of the Triple Crown is quickly approaching.  Hound Ears, which is open just once a year for this event, is first up.  Registration is full, so if you have yet to sign up, then you are gonna miss a bad ass session.  Luckily, the after party and gear raffle are open to all, and helps benefit climbing in the SE.  If you have never been, then check out this video for a glimpse into the event and its history!


Triple Crown Bouldering Series 2010 from matt stark on Vimeo.

There you have it....lots to be psyched about as the cooler temps begin to trickle in.  Stay tuned as some cool stuff is about to come down the pike!

Like a broken record...

...is how we have been climbing.  Working the last kinks out of our summer projects at GHSP before the Fall climbing season rolls into the South.  Not a bad thing, as there is plenty to keep up with.

Some notable new problems at GHSP

-Mouth of Wilson (stand)

-Mouth of Wilson (low)

-Frisky Monkey

-When Mommy Hit Daddy 

-Allegiance to the Swag
- and many more...

Brushing the sloper on When Mommy Hit Daddy

So we got a replacement Flip Mino, and guess what, that shit doesn't work.  Moral: don't get a Flip Mino.  Another short from GHSP, shot from the little Canon.  

Jenn: Wing Man & Reverie

W: Tiger Side & When Mommy Hit Daddy

Wyatt: Tilt-a-Whirl

GHSP 4 from adam walker on Vimeo.

 A few from the 24060 got out to the NRG to give a little love to the Junk Yard crag approach.  The Jasons, Jenn, and Mike all got out there, shoveled gravel, laid ties, and helped create a much needed stair system to the crag.  Well done !

top of the trail

Jason

Lots of hard work...almost done!

-W