VA Obscurities

Lots going on to jibber about today...grab a beer and get ready:

Uno:  Sale time...like woah, at Blue Ridge!  Evolv Talons 2s, Gri Gri's, Boss Hog pads, select draws, 'biners, harnesses, and lots more are on sale, all weekend.  All in addition to most of the winter clothing.  It all hits 40% off on Sunday & Monday, but don't wait till then because you might miss out.  Stop in for details or check it out online! How could it get better? Gri Gri 2, new Black Diamond draws, rope bags and more all just arrived!

nuff said...

climbing gear on sale!  sneak peek!

Dos: Banff tickets are going WAY FAST.  If you don't have one, you better act quick, or you might get left on the curb March 16th.

Tres: WFA course is going on Mountain Lake soon.  March 26-27th to be exact.  If you play in the woods like we do, then you owe it to your partners and family to know how to deal if shit hits the fan.  Matt is one of the best, and this two day course is primo.  

Quattro:  Obscurities from crags around SWVA


SWVA Obscurities from adam walker on Vimeo.

Running late as usual...

It was delayed...but its finally here.  Unfortunately the psyche it might build may have to last you till Spring, because LRT access is about to close till spring.

Whats a classic?  I don't know after 15+ years of searching, suffering, sending, and failing.   Trying to define it is a great challenge.  You know it...but how to describe it, or distinguish it from the low balls, choss, and other lesser quality lines?

Why LRT out of all the areas at GHSP?
1) its a 5 minute walk with great scenery
2) largest quantity of problems
3) wide diversity of grades and styles.

What lines? Well some we had already shot, some we never had a great chance.  They should all at least start at an obvious hold/feature, be striking, have a flat landing, and be friendly to climb on.  Eliminants, bizarre starts, and poor hold/rock quality are definitely "no's"

Four got captured on video: Beast master, Escape from Alcatraz, The Hive, Nancy w/ an E.  Not featured, but must do's if you are here: SLS, Kitten Mittens, Shanghi Knights.  All of these are great lines, regardless of the grade...climb them. Enjoy them.

This is our first attempt.  A classic to me may be your choss pile, but we are going to try to search out the lines that are the classics for their area in SWVA none the less.  Stay tuned for more of the Classic series.  Till then enjoy the ones we caught on video!


Classics: LRT @ GHSP from adam walker on Vimeo.

Fall is on the Horizon

Lots going on in SWVA...

New problem on Sandstone Mtn:  The Green Room, v6.  Start on the ledge under roof and follow rails out to arete and top out.  Video to come soon.

Mtn Nebo had a project go down...more to come.  Double-A-ron?  I'm looking at you!

Coveted 2nd ascents at GHSP have occured over the past little bit.  Down Tempo got a second, though it is not as difficult as originally described (v8).  Climbing a sloper lip for a few moves before easing, Down Tempo clocks in closer to about v6.  A third ascent might be needed to help this problem settle around the accurate grade.  Video to come...

Sigourney Weaver was confirmed at v8+/9-.  Climbing a line of crimps and relying on core tension, this line is fun despite being a lowball.   The start hold crumbled a bit during the repeat process, but no change in difficulty.

Jenn has been reppin' it for the ladies.  She has been putting together a nice list of FFA's from GHSP of late. A few highlights from the late summer season.
Reverie
Frisky Monkey
Casual Tees
Punticilo

and with Thews & Mothership nearly in the crosshairs...and hiking Mike Tyson's Face (5.12), it will be interesting to see what she can do with a bit better conditions. 

While we were at AVP finishing Sigourney Weaver, we noticed some of the holds on Frontman were flexing quite a bit.  We showed up this weekend to warm up, and the holds now moved nearly an inch!  The Richmond crew decided to test the stability of the holds...


Untitled from adam walker on Vimeo.

Last week had 2 great film festivals going on, the Reel Rock Tour and the Radical Reel Tour. The later had some great videos. My personal favorite was the Paxti U. segment from Progression.   Inspirational for trying HARD.  A few pics from the Expo and festival are here.

The Reel Rock Tour was in its second edition at VT.  The VT climbing club raised some money for both NRAC and the Access Fund.  Blue Ridge Mtn Sports helped to pad the donation with a raffle of an Osprey Talon 22. Congrats to Sarah L on winning a sweet pack and giving a donation!

Last, but not least, the first round of the Triple Crown is quickly approaching.  Hound Ears, which is open just once a year for this event, is first up.  Registration is full, so if you have yet to sign up, then you are gonna miss a bad ass session.  Luckily, the after party and gear raffle are open to all, and helps benefit climbing in the SE.  If you have never been, then check out this video for a glimpse into the event and its history!


Triple Crown Bouldering Series 2010 from matt stark on Vimeo.

There you have it....lots to be psyched about as the cooler temps begin to trickle in.  Stay tuned as some cool stuff is about to come down the pike!

bC in the PNW

PNW, check.

In one word: AWESOME.

Actually its not, its terrible, never go.  Its crowded, slick, chossy, and all full of itself. ;)

We got the grand tour: Squamish & Leaventworth

Squamish is a granite paradise.  All of the nice parts of a granite field like Yosemite, but without any of the detractions.  Only issue...its 3000+ miles aways from the 24060.

Truc had a crack team assembled to crush us, and that they did.  We ran from one end to another sampling all the classics:  Worm World, Heart Break Hotel, Lounge Act, Easy Chair, Gibs Cave, Viper, and many more. 

The Crew: Heidi, Brian, Haychoi, Eric, Truc

W vs Worm World

W vs a really heavy block

Eric vs Viper

Heidi vs Heart Break Hotel

Truc vs Sloper Rail

Truc vs Flake

Leavenworth :

one word: Bavarian.

Leiterhosen, brats, brots, keilbasa, and beer make this place sweet.  Well that, and endless boulders.  Really, really killer ones at that.

W vs Fridge Left

W and Truc sussing Hanta Man

W vs Bavarian Beer

As for video, we had some tech difficulties.  We were dumfounded by the easiest VC on the planet.  Later we found it wasn't us, and another is on the way...in HD.  Till then, enjoy.

bC in the PNW from adam walker on Vimeo.


-W

West ward!

Broce element of bC is chilling at the airport in Roanoke

so far:
1 55 min flight delayed
1  accidently deleted post
1 questioned piece of baggage
1 questioned piece of clothing
1 questioned computer
2nd flight delay, 10 min

and still haven't left Roanoke.  So with some time to kill... a post with 2 quick notes:

1st:

Currently bouldering at Mtn Lake is still closed.  Mountain Lake Conservancy
is re-evlauating what types of recreation they wish to allow on their land.
While local resources are working with MLC to guide this evalauation, it is
requested that the climbing community continue to abstain from bouldering at
Mtn Lake.  In order to not only show support for the MLC's wishes, but also
the importance of the resource to the climbing community, a petition is circulating.  Please take a moment to sign:  They are available at the Climbing Club @ VT, W, Travis M, or Blue Ridge Mountain Sports.  The petitions will be collected in the up coming weeks prior to a land management proposal meeting for the Mtn Lake area. Thank you for taking the time to do so as we try to show the community's concern for for our local resource.


2nd:
We climb at the NRG, we love it, and could stand to give a day of work back.  So save the date, head out, and lend a hand.  We are, will we see you there?


Facebook page


From NRAC:
<<<<<

Lend just an hour or two, a whole day or multiple days!

What: Junkyard Wall approach trail, risers and re-route
When: Tuesday, August 31 – Monday, September 6
Where: Junkyard Wall each day at 8:30 am
Bring: Closed-toed shoes, your own food, water, etc.

Junkyard Wall gets its name from the actual unofficial junkyard that once graced what is now the approach trail. The hill was, "once an overflowing mound of washing machines, Mason jars, old tires, and household refuse," writes Mike Williams in New River Gorge Rock Climbs (Wolverine Press). The NPS cleaned the largest of the trash out long ago, but the tinier detritus remains. That combined with the steep nature of the trail makes approaching Junkyard the most dangerous part of the day. Who knows how deep the trash runs?! Take a gander at the millions of glass shards lining the path and it's easy to see why some call it "Hepatitis Hill."

Well, not for much longer. Beginning Tuesday, August 31 and going on through Labor Day Weekend, NRAC and the NPS plan to attack the long-standing Junkyard Wall approach problem by re-routing parts of the trail and installing steps where needed. The major push will occur Saturday, September 4, but we'll gladly accept your help on any one of those days. If you can lend an entire day, that’s great, but we understand the lure of the cliff, too. If all you can give us is an hour or two, we’ll appreciate you just as much!

>>>>>

So there you have it: two great opportunities to spread some love to 2 of our unique resources.  So gain some good karma, sign a petition, and help move some trash!

If you need to carpool, or have a question, post to comments