A New Addition

One of the final lines to fall on the Roadside boulder has fallen. Dave Tucker fired the first ascent of A New Addition (correct me if I am wrong Dave), which was quickly followed up with the second from John Glassberg. The line is listed on the DRtopo guide as "Roadside Project 1". Dave and John completed the line via small crimps while avoiding the arete and suggested a grade of hard V8. Well done! Also while there, John made the 2nd ascent of Brooklyn Bridge, and confirmed the grade of hard V8.

Hopefully, pictures are to follow soon.

Have a great New Years,

W

Vandalized

Deep in the boulder fields at Moore's Wall is one of the most beautiful lines around. The Vandal starts deep in the cave, and climbs out via crimps and big toss. Complete the toss, and then pinch your way out the amazing arete. John and Nate from B-town made the 2nd and 3rd, with the W coming in w/ the 4th a few days later. The weather is killer right now...you should probably be out tuggin' instead of reading this.


The W attempting the Vandal


David R on the Vandal



Here is a killer video of this problem done from the stand. Check it out below.
http://www.urbanclimbermag.tv/videos/videoInfo.php?video=942

Untill such time...




-W

Crouch repeats and Broken Wing 2.0

With the summer heat in most of us have chucked our pads into the closet and grabbed the rope. Well most of us...

David R. and Spencer B. have both repeated the Crouch Dyno (solid V6) at McAfee's Knob. Both came heartbreakingly close on their first day's attempts. These will make the 2nd and 3rd ascents, respectively. David thought the problem was deserving of a upgrade to V.7.

On the same day as David's ascent, several new problems were opened. To find the following problems, start walking toward the summint begining at the the trail for the Domino Wall. Walk past the left for the Pocket Arete corridor, and on the right there is a low roof to bulge. There should be a prominent pocket at just above head height on the right side of the bulge.

1) One Eyed Betty, V2/3: SDS under roof on jugs and climb out to lip. Ascend bulge via pocket and left hand pinch.

continue to the right 20 feet and you will find a thin face problem and large pocket problem

2) Bowling for Flute, V1: Follow line of pockets and top out
3) Zumstien problem, V1: step on at jugs and climb face via thin gastons/sidepulls.

Lastly, Serban J. got jacked. Following the lead of the of Zumstein, Serban took a big whip...only his was outside. Missing the pad from the top out of Little Green Men, yeilded Serban a broken forearm. Luckily the break was not too bad and he'll back in 6-8 weeks. If you see Broken Wing 2.0 around, hook him up w/ a beer or two.

be safe,

The W

The Great Bush Hunt video

The crushing heat is here. 90+ in Blacksburg. Time to tie in and get it on...bouldering season is done. Here is another teaser to get you through the heat. David R on the new moderate, The Great Bush Hunt. Additionally, The Crouch video from a few weeks ago has been changed for the better...a more high quality (less blurry ) version is in its place.

Up next, something different...

Enjoy,

W

End of May Video

End of May is here and the hot June weather is creeping in...another fresh video to keep everyone psyched and searching out the shady climbs.

Enjoy,

the W

The Money Shot (extended start)

Last week an ascent (possible FA) of the extended start to The Money Shot was made. Starting on the far right jug/flake, traverse left (avoiding the ramp) and link into The Money Shot. It tilts the scales at around V7ish, but lacks confirmation.

The Crouch video

OK.... here is the first of a, hopefully, semi-often updated video section. First up, The Crouch at McAfee's Knob. The Crouch is located at the summit on the Project wall. This problem went up this past Spring.


The Crouch, McAfee's Knob

Repeats and pics

Truc Allen repeated Head Gasket for its second ascent on Sunday. Truc thought it to be slightly easier in dificulty compared to Domino...V6+. Below are pics from the send by Tom M.





Jon Bernard on the new problem Ramsey...



and the classic Deed dyno

The Lost City

In the past week, McAfee's Knob has been in season. Lower down on the mountian, Truc A. saught out more climbing to add to the Fire Road boulders. after a rain day hike/search, Truc located the Lost City boulders, just shy of the 30 min mark from the parking lot. Vertical and techy, the Lost City boulders is a change from the steep lines seen on most of the fire road area boulders. The pictures are taken by Jason Simpson, and a topo will follow.

McAfee's Knob summit area developement

In the past week more ascents have been added to the areas around the summit of McAfee's Knob. Most of the new development has been located on the proper side of the summit. The first area to see additional development was the Afrika Baambatta sector. This area saw six more ascents. This topo is updated to reflect a mistake in a previous post...Forager and the Shelf are located 2 "bays" over from this sector. No problems currently exist in the "bay" directly next to Afrika Baambatta.

14) Zulu Nation V7: SDS on low shelf in middle of the wall. Traverse left, linking into Afrika Baambatta.
15) The Great Bush Hunt V3: SDS as Zulu Nation, but climb straight up the face via jugs and slopers.

Located on the same boulder as Alez Oops, to the left on the far arete are two more moderates. Indiana and the Temple of Plates tackles the arete while The Tucan ascends the face to the right.
16) Indiana and the Temple of Plates V2: SDS on low ledge on arete. Climb arete via pockets and slopers.
17) The Tucan V3: SDS on crack and sidepull. Climb face w/ jugs and sidepulls.

Just in front the previous problems is a nice easier problem, Bruce's Vale.
18) Bruce's Vale V0: start on ledge, climb face.

Also just in front of the other problems is the Pyramid. This boulder is a pyramid with two climbable aretes.
19) Ghiza V0: starts on pocket and sidepull.
20) Ramsey V2: SDS on jug/undercling and edge. Climb arete.


The next set of development was on the boulders located behind the Err boulder. The Intergalactic boulders climb in two different styles, but both feature quality moderates.
1) Diamond traverse V2: Start on flake, traversing right and topping out at highpoint
2) Diamond direct V2: SDS on edges and climb face.
3) Monarch Slab V0: climb slab, starting on edges
4) Leave it to cleaver V2: Start on flake and climb face.
5) Space Ghost V2: Start on the dog bowl and climb the overhanging face.
6) The Warm up V2: SDS on pocket and edge. Climb face with sidepulls to an easy top out.
7) Little Green Men V3/4: sds on flat jugs in the "notch". Climb face with slopes to a "long" move.
8) Bernard problemV2: sds on edge and flat pinch. Long moves at the top.

In the Visor area, four new problems were established. Also while there, the classic white face problem was cleaned more, making it more user friendly.

1) Tuber V1: sds in the "perch position" and climb out.
2) The Reach Around V1: SDS low on arete and face. Climb arete, around tree, and finish at pinical.
3) Classic White Face V4: SDS in middle of face. Climb to top not using aretes. CLASSIC
4) V1: sds on sloper ledge and over bulge/
5) PROJECT V?: absurdly low start on awkward jugs. Climb bulge.
6) The Hole V2/3: SDS on low jug and shelf. Traverse face and top out just shy of arete.

Lastly, on the project wall, a new problem was climbed. The Crouch, was the right most project. The Crouch ascends the face via a steep dyno to a good ledge.
1) Vesper Bell V6: start standing, while grasping two opposing sidepull/pinches. After pulling on and setting your feet, toss high to a sloper. Match it up and top out to the right

2) The Crouch V6/7: Start matched on large edge, establish into the "crouch" via tricky underclings, then toss to the corner/ledge.

Alpha Site

Alpha Site FA's

Jenn and I visited Alpha Site, just outside of C-ville, over the past few days. The rock is well featured and has great texture...the style is reminiscent of Hound Ears. We established a few new lines and did some area classics. ***You might notice that I have somehow "lost" the ability to rotate images in the blog...so a few might be a touch off.

Two new problems went up at the C-ville field, Alpha Site. The first problem was a standing project on one of the taller boulders at the field. Welcome to J.A.M. Rock starts on a few jugs followed through a traverse on sharp crimps. After campusing through the last of the crimps, you toss around the corner to positive side pulls and then jugs to the top. It weighs the scales at around 6+/7-


The second problem a link-up. The Antagonized is essentially a left sit start to the Crack. SDS on a large left side pull and a sharp right, cross through to another good side pull and catch an good edge. Control your swing and finish up the crack. A good moderate at around v5

Pictures of new problems

Highlights from the new problems


Josh on Arabesque


Truc making the first ascent of Dumpster Porn, to the right of Arabesque


Head Gasket

For Whom the Bell Tolls

Jon B. and I headed out to the Knob for a night session. During the fading light of the session, the first ascent of The Vesper Bell was made. The Vesper Bell starts standing, while grasping two opposing sidepull/pinches. After pulling on and setting your feet, toss high to a sloper. Match it up and top out to the right via a jug and a typical McAfee's Knob assortment of holds. The Vesper Bell rings in at aroundV6ish.

The Vesper Bell is located on the near side of the summit. It is found on the boulder that creates the right hand turn to walk down to the Domino Wall. The Vesper Bell is on the left side of the first face you see as you walk up the trail, 25 feet before the right hand turn for the Domino Wall. Pics to come soon.

6 more, hot off the grill...

Monday was spent scrubbing and searching for more lines on top of McAfee's Knob. Some goodness was found. Most of the new lines are in the Maze and Regan's Nose areas, which are located past the summit. To get there, follow the summit cliff line till it turns into a maze of boulders, or, consult DrTopo's McAfee guide for an overview map. Definitely get out and check out the lines that have gone up!

Directly across from Journey lies two more casual problems:
12) Allez Oop: sds on jugs, climb face and arete. V1
13) Unnamed: start in jug slot, climb face via sidepull/gaston. V1

Over in the Maze area are three more.
Just down between the ships prow area and the walk down into the maze is Arabesque. It lies closer to walk in ramp between the boulders.
1)Arabesque: sds on low incut jugs, and climb up sharp crimps to a sloper. V4

While walking towards Devil's Kitchen (on top of the boulders), there are two more casual problems. They are locate next to a convenient walk down.
2) Gnome Sex : sds on undercling, and climb face to top out. V2
3) Midget Toss: sds on iron rails, and climb face V2

The last of the freshness is in the Regan's Nose area. With your back to Regan's Nose, the boulder is just in front of you, behind the bushes. Head Gasket ascends the bright orange face.
4) Head Gasket: sds on positive flake and low shallow pinch. Climb the face by gaston/sidepull, and nice iron rail pocket. Arete is off.

If you climb any of these and feel that the grades are wack or the topos got you no where near the above, leave a remark and we'll fix it.

FAs abound

After giving Dave a tour of the proper half of the summit, I realized there were not a ton of established boulders. We wandered for a good bit and decided to come back and scrub the lichen off of a few and see what we could find.

Monday...

After 2 and a half hours of scrubbing, I unearthed about 8 or so new lines on an unclimbed boulder. The boulder is on the left as you come up the trail, just before the trail for the Pocket arete corridor. A topo follows at the end along with some pics from Jason Simpson...click the topo to enlarge.

1)Tuscora arete: V-basic, sds V1
2)Slab 1: start on pocket/dimples and go up via undercling side pull- V0
3)Slab 2: start on sloper rail and go up via gaston and sidepulls- V0
4)Dalian Face: SDS on pinch and sloper and go up via side pull and pinch- V2
5)Rode Wet: SDS on low shelf and go up via edges and jugs- V2
6)Hope: SDS on obvious incut rail and climb face- V2
7)Err: SDS on low jugs and climb up via jug and side pulls- V1 Variation: SDS on sloper shelf to right- V0
Err

After finding and climbing these Dan and Jason both arrived and started to spin through the above. In the mean time I wandered a bit and cleaned 3 more lines. The first two are on the other side of the trail, just before the previously mentioned boulder.

8)The shelf: sds on low jugs and climb tall face- V0 (possibly climbed before?)
9)Forager: sds on crimps/edges and climb short face via bump and side pull V3/4
Forager

After, I showed Jason and Dan a wall not far from there. Here we put up two new problems. Journey is a tall problem ascends a sweet face via pocket/jugs with the topout guarded by a long reach. Afrika Baambatta is 10 feet before Journey and is a shorter problem with a neat toss.

10)Afrika Baambatta: sds on low pockets and climb face via good holds to a pinch and toss. V5
11)Journey: sds on undercling and angle up and right to top out just by tree. V2
Dan on Afrika Baambatta

If anyone goes out and has a different impression of grade, topo accuracy, or what not, leave a remark and we'll try to keep a consensus of whats what.
Click to enlarge

Knight

After a night of beer drinking and heckling, I woke up disoriented and (thanks to day lights saving time) completely unsure of the damn time. A bit of wobbling around the house for some water and finding my shoes and shit, I realized I was late to meet Dave R at the McAfee's parking lot (for those who remembered the time change). After racing out to the parking lot and the punishing hike that ensued, I made it to the top, still hungover and feeling able to eat finally.

After a bit, I showed Dave Domino, a sweet bulge problem. Unfortunately, the sun was creeping right over the bulge making the toss pretty hard, so I decided to work the project that comes off of it. The project hits a 2 finger pocket after Domino's first move and heads right via a crystal crimp and some good slopers to top out on the crimpy V3 to the right. After about 15 or 20 minutes, the thing unraveled and was ready to be sent; even the sun had moved on. One try and the link was fired.

Photo sequence by JS

Kehl show and Boone

The other day was the Jason Kehl slide show, which was pretty sweet. Lots of climbing infused with art, all shown through Jason's unique perspective...definately check out the show if you get a chance. Afterwards, a bunch of us went out w/ Jason for some dinner and beers. While getting rowdy, a posse formed to head south to Boone.


After an early start, we caught up w/ Horton to hit up some sweet boulders @ G-mother. The BFC chairman was down, but not out w/ shingles...he still got it up and pulled down. The boulders were a nice change for standard issue Boone; easy on the skin. I think we climbed 15 or so problems of all types and our skin wasn't too hurt. Highlights included flashing an amazing tall, orange, pockety crimp face. Tall, perfect incut edges, and firey orange...this thing is killer. A second higlight was getting the second ascent of a cool dyno just behind the tall one. Gently overhanging and ever so slightly slopey holds make this problem way fun.


Truc on the beautiful tall problem. Photo by Matt Berhens

Jason Kehl show
February 23rd, 8pm
Blue Ridge Outdoors
125 N Main St, Blacksburg VA
540.552.9012

Snow...finally

I went solo to Bozoo yesterday. Having never been there after any significant snow fall, I was pretty surprised at what was climbable. With just a bit of time dedicated to snow removal, I climbed a problem or two in just about every area. Not to mention, the snow probably kept most people inside , so it was a beautifully white and quiet day. A partial list of things that stay dry or need very little snow removal:

The Blok: The Thing, Driver 8, Thoraxic, Grinding for Tips
The Crown: juggy warm ups...though kicking some snow outta the "crown" is advised
Hershey Kiss boulder: everything, except the tall easy problem in the middle
45 wall: Everything...only a little light seeping; not anything that can't be dried w/ a towel/chalk
Fire pole: Everything
French Tits boulder: French Tits


The highlight, asides from not falling through any of the frozen creeks, was getting the second ascent of The Flame. The problem looks like nothing and appears to be easy, but it is deceptive. With two tough moves in four, it packs a little heat in there. Using a little different beta than Truc (and being a little taller, which is not so good on this one), I agree that its about V7 or so.

Jason Simpson took the following pics one afernoon while I was flounderin' on this problem when it was about 70 in January

Along came Humpty Dumpty

Soooo....

Two weeks ago, Adam Z. made a quick second try ascent of the Bozoo highball Forbidden Fruit. The first attempt resulted in a cartwheeling, sideways digger onto the ground. With no injuries asides some bent glasses, Adam sacked up again, and sent.

a week or so later....

Hanging at the gym, Adam took a reasonably sized fall onto the pads. Absurdly bad luck took over this time... Adam is on the mend. If you see him around town, buy the dude a beer.

Winter is back in effect

With Jenn starting school @ UVa again this week, I have found myself back in C'ville for this weekend. We had plans for two days of pulling ,but nothing other than that. I was gonna just be glad to be outside and feeling good after recovering from the appearance of the Tequila Monster earlier in the week.

Jenn and I busted out a typically late start to Moorman's after a late brunch. I was hoping to head there to dispatch False Witness and Jen was gunnin' for the main wall's traverse. I was secretly hoping to have time to go try the Egg @ Sugar Hollow again and myabe Great White. But first we had to get the ball rolling...

After suffering through the wind for a bit, the body and fingers started to feel good. While we were warming up we met two locals, Vern ( a HS principal ) and Tim. Both were really nice and it sounds like Tim had quite a bit to do with bolting the conglomerant canyon of Maple, UT. Kinda of a small world...if you haven't been to Maple, then you should...its surreal to climb there: imagine a wall of cobble stones of all angles, with each cobble ranging from pea to chest size. Unreal and a bit disconcerting, though all pretty solid.

Anyhow, back to the day of tuggin'...I did False Witness pretty fast and while Jenn tried the main wall traverse for a bit. While we there hanging out with Vern and TIm, we learned that Sunday was to be the day Winter was gonna come roaring back to life. The skinny was snow followed by sleet and freezing rain. So after a bit of debating, we decide to bust it over to Sugar Hollow to try some problems today in case we missed out on climbing Sunday. After doing Great White, we scoped some new problems on an adjoining wall and decided to leave as that the temps were getting nasty.

Epiloge: It snowed, sleeted, and freezing rained all day on Sunday



False Witness

Summer in Winter?

Jenn and I went to McAfee's Knob with the intent of getting some, if any, bouldering in since it had rained hard the night before. Well, some of it was dry and we put in a pretty casual session in hopes of getting drier and cooler weather the tomorrow...which for Winter that wouldn't normally be a tall order. We live in Bizarro land...this winter we have more 55+ days than I can remember, and tomorrow is to be nearly 70. Guess we will see what happens...

After a night of a lot of Tequilla and a pile of 24 episodes, its nearly 55 at 9am. By noon its almost 65. At the crag, the car thermometer says its 70. Well damn, I guess Winter might not arrive this year.

After rallying a posse together (Mike & Jason), we headed to Bozoo since the NRG was looking rainy. Upon arriving there, we ran into some friends: Truc, Heidi, Abbie, Philip and Jeb. Taking the HOT weather in stride we busted out a good circuit. Jason made a quick ascent of a V3 mantel problem in the warm up area. Mike came desperately close to a v6 roof to mantel in the same area, while Jenn made progress on a traverse located on the Hersey boulder. Truc gave a little beta on the Flame, allowing me to come super close to doing it in BAD conditions...maybe next time.

After finishing up at the Hersey/warm up area, we finished up at the 45 degree wall with Jeb and Philip. They, Mike, and Jenn tried Forbiden Fruit while I did Destro, the middle sit start into both the pinch and crimp finishes and the Mothena problem. All in all a great day in the rediculously warm weather.

Clockwise: Mike on the warm up roof mantle, Truc on the Flame

***now that I am writing this watch it snow 2 feet