Thursday, July 29, 2010


The 300 Broce elements of bEAST coast have a one track mind it seems, and the track leads right to Grayson Highland State Park at the moment.  A beautiful 75 degree day welcomed us and Mike as we rolled into AVP, where met our friend Philip.

The day at AVP unfolded for each of us:

Mike:, Frontman, stand(v4); Volatile(v3)
Philip: Frontman, sds(v5); Distance Dyno (v4); Volatile(v3); FA of Stilletto
W: Finger Confusion (v7); Casual Tees (v6, flashed); Frontman, sds(v5, flashed); Volatile(v3, flashed)

After a good bit of time at AVP, we re-grouped and headed to the LTR sector.  The "Man-child" area was the our focus, as Mike and Philip were itching to try the two tiger problems, Bengal and Tiger Side.  Phil made progress on Tiger Side, while Mike stayed determined and sent Bengal!

Seattle is coming up quick.  We have been looking to get fit.  A long ways to go, but its a long ways to travel to suck.  Get ready Seattle bEAST COASTERS, the 300 Broce contingent is revving the engine!

Check the media:

Mike on Volatile

W capturing some crappy video

Saturday, July 24, 2010

The computer is back with a new hard drive!  Now back to regular posts?!?!

A few of the bEAST Coasters have been hitting Grayson Highland State Park up over the past few weeks.  In a nut shell, GHSP is pretty sweet and wide open for FAs...get it on.  The team has been grabbing repeats while working in a few FAs along the way.

FA's- Man-Child, Beast Maker, Heavy Footed Swagger, 1Up, Sofa King, Tumble, Of Gum Drops and Sugar Plums, Sugar High, Smurf Turf.  And a load of repeats in the moderate v5-v7 range...time to work some of the harder lines!  Lots to be done...  Can't wait for cooler temps!

Also of note, bEASTcoast is making its way to Seattle to bring some ruckus to former bEAST coasters.  Time to train like Rocky, get some new kicks, and maybe climb more than 2x a week.  Might even go run once or twice.

And now for multi media action!

Mike and the mini ponies

W on Fulgora
W on S.LS.
Scott on Tiger Side

Video from Brad Caldwell

video from Matt Bielejeski

A quick an dirty of the 2nd ascent

Out -W

Monday, July 19, 2010

Mtn Lake Access

 Access to climbing areas in the southeast is not a given; many areas face threatening access issues while others have already been closed. Unfortunately our local areas are no exception.  As of the dated email below, the Mountain Lake Conservancy has asked that all climbing cease till further notice.  Once the Mountain Lake Conservancy has come to a conclusion on what forms of recreation are allowed on the property, a notice will be sent out.
As we work towards gaining access to this local resource as a user group, following their request is of the utmost importance.  As opportunities arise for a club or individual to help in the process, we will post it up ASAP.  In the meantime, feel free to post questions in the "comments" and we'll get back to you quickly.

Thanks having patience as we try to regain access to a unique resource here in SWVa.

-----Original Message-----
From: Emily Woodall at Mountain Lake  
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2010 3:50 PM
Subject: To the Local Bouldering Community

Greetings from the Mountain Lake Conservancy.  I wanted to give you a heads up regarding our land use policy for our 2,600 acres of private property.  It is the Conservancy’s mission to further Mary Moody Northen’s desire to forge bonds between people and nature in Mountain Lake’s unique environment.  We also have a commitment to provide accessibility to all.  With that said, we want to make sure that our property is accessible to all community users.  Recently we have run into some issues with liability and what sports/activities are allowed on Conservancy property and are working to clear this up. 

Our current rules now allow trail users to access our trails year round by paying our $3.00 donation per vehicle.  During the months that the hotel is open, you are welcome to park in the main hotel parking lot.  We have also built a new trail parking lot located 1 mile past the hotel on the right that is open year round.  You are not allowed to park near the Newport House or any other undesignated areas.

Because we are private property, we are not responsible for your well-being and users are at their own risk when recreating at Mountain Lake.  This fall we are holding a meeting with the MLC Board to discuss our land use policies, liability, insurance etc.  We want to clear up any gray areas so that all community users are clear on what activities are allowed on property.  I will keep you updated through this process. 

In the meantime, please limit your activities at Mountain Lake until we have a comprehensible policy in place that we can share with you.  I will keep you updated with this progression.

Thanks and please email me if you have further questions. 

Emily Woodall

Managing Director
Mountain Lake Conservancy
540.626.7121 x444

Thursday, July 01, 2010

The past week or so has seen some great weather, especially down in the Grayson Highlands State Park...not perfect, but amazing for mid-summer in the south east!  Spray and hopefully some video/pics to come find an umbrella.

GHSP is good shit, and the possibility of a trip looming on the horizon has got me thinking...might have to get in touch with these guys.  That and maybe climb more than once/twice a week.  Fall is coming...

Foals "Miami" from Team G on Vimeo.

Have a great 4th and enjoy the grilling festivities