Friday, April 27, 2007

The Crouch video

OK.... here is the first of a, hopefully, semi-often updated video section. First up, The Crouch at McAfee's Knob. The Crouch is located at the summit on the Project wall. This problem went up this past Spring.

The Crouch, McAfee's Knob

Wednesday, April 25, 2007

Repeats and pics

Truc Allen repeated Head Gasket for its second ascent on Sunday. Truc thought it to be slightly easier in dificulty compared to Domino...V6+. Below are pics from the send by Tom M.

Jon Bernard on the new problem Ramsey...

and the classic Deed dyno

Friday, April 20, 2007

The Lost City

In the past week, McAfee's Knob has been in season. Lower down on the mountian, Truc A. saught out more climbing to add to the Fire Road boulders. after a rain day hike/search, Truc located the Lost City boulders, just shy of the 30 min mark from the parking lot. Vertical and techy, the Lost City boulders is a change from the steep lines seen on most of the fire road area boulders. The pictures are taken by Jason Simpson, and a topo will follow.

Wednesday, April 11, 2007

McAfee's Knob summit area developement

In the past week more ascents have been added to the areas around the summit of McAfee's Knob. Most of the new development has been located on the proper side of the summit. The first area to see additional development was the Afrika Baambatta sector. This area saw six more ascents. This topo is updated to reflect a mistake in a previous post...Forager and the Shelf are located 2 "bays" over from this sector. No problems currently exist in the "bay" directly next to Afrika Baambatta.

14) Zulu Nation V7: SDS on low shelf in middle of the wall. Traverse left, linking into Afrika Baambatta.
15) The Great Bush Hunt V3: SDS as Zulu Nation, but climb straight up the face via jugs and slopers.

Located on the same boulder as Alez Oops, to the left on the far arete are two more moderates. Indiana and the Temple of Plates tackles the arete while The Tucan ascends the face to the right.
16) Indiana and the Temple of Plates V2: SDS on low ledge on arete. Climb arete via pockets and slopers.
17) The Tucan V3: SDS on crack and sidepull. Climb face w/ jugs and sidepulls.

Just in front the previous problems is a nice easier problem, Bruce's Vale.
18) Bruce's Vale V0: start on ledge, climb face.

Also just in front of the other problems is the Pyramid. This boulder is a pyramid with two climbable aretes.
19) Ghiza V0: starts on pocket and sidepull.
20) Ramsey V2: SDS on jug/undercling and edge. Climb arete.

The next set of development was on the boulders located behind the Err boulder. The Intergalactic boulders climb in two different styles, but both feature quality moderates.
1) Diamond traverse V2: Start on flake, traversing right and topping out at highpoint
2) Diamond direct V2: SDS on edges and climb face.
3) Monarch Slab V0: climb slab, starting on edges
4) Leave it to cleaver V2: Start on flake and climb face.
5) Space Ghost V2: Start on the dog bowl and climb the overhanging face.
6) The Warm up V2: SDS on pocket and edge. Climb face with sidepulls to an easy top out.
7) Little Green Men V3/4: sds on flat jugs in the "notch". Climb face with slopes to a "long" move.
8) Bernard problemV2: sds on edge and flat pinch. Long moves at the top.

In the Visor area, four new problems were established. Also while there, the classic white face problem was cleaned more, making it more user friendly.

1) Tuber V1: sds in the "perch position" and climb out.
2) The Reach Around V1: SDS low on arete and face. Climb arete, around tree, and finish at pinical.
3) Classic White Face V4: SDS in middle of face. Climb to top not using aretes. CLASSIC
4) V1: sds on sloper ledge and over bulge/
5) PROJECT V?: absurdly low start on awkward jugs. Climb bulge.
6) The Hole V2/3: SDS on low jug and shelf. Traverse face and top out just shy of arete.

Lastly, on the project wall, a new problem was climbed. The Crouch, was the right most project. The Crouch ascends the face via a steep dyno to a good ledge.
1) Vesper Bell V6: start standing, while grasping two opposing sidepull/pinches. After pulling on and setting your feet, toss high to a sloper. Match it up and top out to the right

2) The Crouch V6/7: Start matched on large edge, establish into the "crouch" via tricky underclings, then toss to the corner/ledge.

Sunday, April 01, 2007

Alpha Site

Alpha Site FA's

Jenn and I visited Alpha Site, just outside of C-ville, over the past few days. The rock is well featured and has great texture...the style is reminiscent of Hound Ears. We established a few new lines and did some area classics. ***You might notice that I have somehow "lost" the ability to rotate images in the a few might be a touch off.

Two new problems went up at the C-ville field, Alpha Site. The first problem was a standing project on one of the taller boulders at the field. Welcome to J.A.M. Rock starts on a few jugs followed through a traverse on sharp crimps. After campusing through the last of the crimps, you toss around the corner to positive side pulls and then jugs to the top. It weighs the scales at around 6+/7-

The second problem a link-up. The Antagonized is essentially a left sit start to the Crack. SDS on a large left side pull and a sharp right, cross through to another good side pull and catch an good edge. Control your swing and finish up the crack. A good moderate at around v5