Thursday, November 19, 2009

bEAST Coast Recon Trip: Bluefield Boulders

Feeling under the weather and not up to going 110% on a project, I decided a recon trip to a new area was a bit more my pace. After getting tipped off as to some bouldering near the VA/WV line in Bluefield, I seeked confirmation from the crew's Bluefield information resource: Cliff

Cliff confirmed that there were boulders, and that he spent some time drinking there back in the day, prior to forming his bouldering habit. Good enough for me...at least they are quality enough to inspire some beer drinking if they proved dumpy, chossy, or worse. Off on 46oW I went.

After a touch over an hour's drive, I arrived at the VA/WV border. The boulders were clustered above a small seasonal rest area/park on top of East River mtn. Psyched to get out of the car, I grabbed my coffee and did a quick walk through of the field. Its not huge (it can be walked through in just about 10minutes), but there is quite a bit of rock with no approach to speak of. So far, so good.
The first boulder I came across was the Sandy boulder. It was home to some nice sneaker problems that were great to warm up on. After getting used to being out of the car, I gave the boulder's name sake problem, Sandy's Slap, a quick flash. A great warm up problem with no tweaky holds.


Aaron on Sandy Slap (Parlier photo)


Moving on, I set my sights on the short steep wall right behind me. I flashed Enzyte, a great problem with a nice round top out, a la Mcaffe's Knob. Next up was Adhesion, a short, crimpy roof problem. After a go or two, I solved it. The final established problem on the wall I did was Cohesion, just to the right of Adhesion...similar climbing just with bigger holds. Lastly i tried an new, possibly undone line to the right of Cohesion: "Opposition" Starting on an undercling, poopt to the lip for a techy top out. Fun even if it is short.




Steve on Enzyte (Parlier photo)

At this point I ran into Aaron P and Steve L, who have been developing the bouldering there. Surprised to see any one out there, they both were ready and willing to give a tour (thanks guys!). So off we went. Next up was Minima, another short roof with a nice sloper top out. I watched Steve give it a few goes, got some beta from Aaron, and then flashed.


Steve moving through Minima (Parlier Photo)


Next up was a line recently put up by Aaron, the Secant Line. The problem starts on a gaston and undercling, then up a slopey arete, finishing with a toss to the top. After unlocking some different foot beta, I was able to send the line.

grappling with the Secant Line (Parlier photo)

Check. (Parlier photo)

The next to last boulder we saw as the "building boulder", which had a old dilapidated building that was built INTO the boulder. Crazy. The choice line, also the most unique is the Door Way problem, where one climbs OUT of the building to a classing SE top out...best problem of the day for me.


Doorway Problem! (Parlier photo)

For the finale, we checked out the unclimbed, tall arete to the right of the Minima wall, aptly named Maxima. We cleaned the line up a bit, chalked it and then night fall came. Anxious to at least get a burn in on the line, we all booted up. I flashed through the start to the "point of commitment" but darkness got the better of me as I bailed. Aaron had a similar experience. A very nice line...one of the best here.

Overall, the Bluefield boulders are a gem in the rough. Aaron and Steve have worked hard to establish quality lines, and will no doubt continue to locate more. No approach, quality rock, and overall convienence make this field worth a stop if you are in the area.

1 comment:

cliff said...

NICE!!! glad to see those rocks are good for something besides breaking beer bottles against